Medsailors Croatia: paradise found

by Suzanne Barton (Australia)

A leap into the unknown Croatia

We had a lunchtime gin and tonic at the ACI marina before boarding our new home for the week – a 43 foot yacht called White Princess. The week was to be spent sailing in a fleet of five boats amongst the Croatian islands with Medsailors – an ‘upstart’ venture founded by some New Zealanders. Our skipper was the charismatic Italian Giovanni, a master of the sea, stage, salad and song. Katie and I chose the bow cabin, featuring a triangular double bed, two hatches opening onto the deck and just enough room to stack our awkward four-month trip sized suitcases. Day One Split to Sisela After a trip to the marina supermarket for provisions Giovanni gave us our safety briefing and instructions on how to use the loo pump (an essential skill in such close quarters). Before long, our five boats – populated with people from Australia, New Zealand, England, Ireland and more – eased our way out through the narrow Split harbour into the wide blue yonder. In a word, it was spectacular. The water was smooth and clear, the skies were infinite and the crumbling terracotta tones of the distant towns were inviting. We began to get our sea legs and lounged around the yacht enjoying the views and sunshine. Our boat’s stereo system began its blissful, week-long soundtrack of perfectly fitting tunes which included Giovanni’s Italian and French ballads, Mumford and Sons, classical works from Ludovico Einaudi, some 90s flashbacks and much more. With the growing distance between us and the shore, our worldly cares drifted away. That evening we moored in a bay at the island of Sisela with our yachts secured alongside one another, so we could climb between them to socialise and swap supplies. Many people eagerly leapt into the clear, warm water and swum across to the far side of the bay, clambering up the rocks and jumping off. The bay was deserted save for one restaurant perched on the rocks. After dark, we boarded our tenders (dinghies) in small groups to be ferried the short distance to shore, negotiating the lines of the other boats and sea urchins underfoot. All the Medsailors sat at long tables with our crew mates and indulged in mojitos, fresh local fish, tuna steak, octopus and salad. The hearty meal was topped off with grappa. After we had eaten our fill, and another squealy ride in the tiny tender back to White Princess, the revelry continued on deck until the last person had collapsed into their tiny bed or bunk for our first night’s sleep on the water. Day Two Sisela to Vis We rose to a perfect day on the bay, a glistening morning swim, a quick bob around on the giant banana, tea, muesli and fresh crusty bread delivered by tender. Another day of calm seas saw us motoring across the siliconesque surface to our destination of Vis, a small but bustling harbour, where we moored for a refreshing dip, unintentionally disturbing the local nudists sunning themselves on the rocks. That evening, Medsailors put on a cocktail party on the quay. Then, we followed Giovanni through the old town maze for about 15 minutes to try a restaurant he had raved about. Called Bocados, it was a classy affair hidden down an alley and with tables and chairs set up in a series of ancient, graveled courtyards, ours dominated by a sprawling fig tree. Our waiter Goran was a real gentleman and our meal was fit for a king, including whole calamari grilled and stuffed with rice and prosciutto. Giovanni treated us to a tune on the piano and the conversation disintegrated to raucous laughter as the bold local cats leapt onto our knees again and again and begging for our fishy scraps. Tonight’s complimentary grappa was fig infused evening. Pistachio ice cream was consumed by some on the walk home, and we stopped in a local bar for some more Medsailors hospitality before retiring to the deck of our boat for late night, blanket-wrapped chats.