Mindfulness in Ubud

by Justine Roberts (New Zealand)

Making a local connection Indonesia

"Breathe in..." Incense fills me. I signed up for a mindfulness meditation class, though it seems I've paid someone 100,000 Rupiah to teach me how to breathe. It's my first time in Bali and I'm attempting to experience Ubud's relaxed reputation. "...and breathe out..." My day has been far from relaxing. With the help of my driver Gede, I sardined everything from the Tegallalang Rice Terraces to the Sacred Monkey Forest, all in 100% humidity. I am now drenched in tourist clichés. “Focus on your surroundings...let your thoughts flow naturally...acknowledge and accept them..." Though several blocks away, I can still hear the monkeys barking as I avoid eye contact. I feel the gaze of the market locals as I ignore "for you, special price!" offers. As the wind whispers through the netted windows, I hear the whoosh and "woo!" as I swing over the terraces - the classic 'Bali Swing' experience. I also hear my heart full of questions. Has commercialism won? Where does genuine Bali still reside? It wasn't in the Ralph Lauren down Monkey Tree Road. What was Ubud like 50 years ago, before designated paths through the forests and fields, before Eat Pray Love? Life must have been peaceful, surrounded by nature alone, not driven by social media. Today I felt a wholesome return to this between the concession tickets and beyond the Instagrammable photos. For little more that $20USD, Gede tirelessly chaffeured me for five hours to familiar attractions, but also invited me into his past, family and dreams. "How long have you been driving in Bali, Gede?" Since 1992. At 14, I moved away from my village in West Bali to the capital Denpasar. My parents couldn't afford to support my schooling further, so I started driving. At the same time I taught myself English, but it wasn't easy. I put words all over my house - table, chair, cupboard, food - everything. "Do you get time off for a holiday yourself? No, I've worked six to seven days a week for as long as I can remember. I'm putting two of my children through university in Bali, so most of my money goes to them. When I do get a day off, I visit my village. It's a simple lifestyle and very few tourists go there. My mother still lives there and is a singing celebrity, it's always fun to see her perform. I think I will retire there. "Will you still drive when you retire?" I shouldn't need to drive. I hope both children will have good jobs to support us. I'm writing a children’s book, and songs to go along with it, to help children learn English. It's an opportunity I never had, and I want to be able to teach this in my village. I had to self-learn guitar through YouTube, but I'm learning more songs every day! "...and now awaken your body starting from your feet...and come back into standing..." I slowly slip back into the room. A deep breath in and I'm still in awe of Gede's daily perseverance, his curiosity to learn and to give back. There are some memories and lessons that cannot be confined or explained by a picture alone. Breathing out, I sink into my shoulders, relaxed at last. I've begun to accept and even respect the intense tourism that supports hardworking locals like Gede to improve the lives of himself and his family. "Thank you for coming to mindfulness meditation...please enjoy the rest of your day and remember, happiness does not come from seeking what we never had, true happiness comes from within.” As I stretch-groan, I'm craving the lunch I never had. Maybe I'll keep supporting the locals with a cute looking smoothie bowl... The picture's just a bonus, I swear.