Mombasa Valentine Escape- Jumba la Mtwana

by Evalyne Muturi (Kenya)

A leap into the unknown Kenya

I recently went on a Valentine escape to Mombasa and documented my travel series at my blog http://evamuturi.wordpress.com. I write my travel experiences here too and this is one of the stories. First of all it is not easy to pinpoint this locale along Malindi highway just past Mtwapa town. Immediately after Mtwapa weighbridge, on your right is the Monsoon hotel signage. That long dusty road will give you quite a ride!Blue monkeys hospitalizes one to this ‘house of the strong one’ ruins. Entry is Ksh 100 for resident adults. However, there are interns whom you can hire and tip off depending on your wallet size (or how are you going to know about the ruins?)Jumba is a Swahili word meaning a large house of slaves. On the other hand, Mtwana means Strong one in Swahili. A small museum showcases the early developments of the cultural, socioeconomic and government life of the Swahili people.Of interest is the architectural designs used on housing from village mud huts and palm frond dwellings to houses built on coral rag and mortar. This later shifted with the ‘Golden Age of Swahili Civilization’ to houses built of stones between the 13th and 17th centuries. It is here where the ruling class built palaces located in the center of the settlement. Strong outer wall with gates surrounded the towns which were divided into neighbourhoods (boroughs).The center held the permanent houses which were the mosques, palaces and residential houses. Surrounding these were the houses constructed of mud, stone and palm thatch. Narrow and winding footpaths separated the houses. Each town had at least one well in the center. Many of the mosques were located close to the wells to provide water for the cistern which were used for cleansing before prayers: the same wells provided water for domestic use. Salient ruins to learn from here are: House of cylinders– it has two cylinders and a toilet. The unique thing about is the incisor rocks for the regulation of heat and protection of the house. It had thicker walls so there was no need of a deeper foundation. Built of coral rags and mortar. Small mosque with big well-mosques were built with the same materials as the houses but had pillars and columns to support the reefs. All faithful faced the mihrab (the apsidal recess in the wall that faces Mecca). Like all mosques in most ruins, they were divided into two. The larger room housed men while the smaller women during prayers with a big wall dividing them. House of kitchen– this is where most kitchenware was discovered as well as ash indicating most of the cooking was done here. House of many doors-like the name suggests this house had many doors plus many rooms. The smaller rooms are believed to have housed slaves who came in with the traders who occupied the larger rooms. A safe where women kept their jewelry is seen here. Central mosque– another place of worship that was at the center of the town. It had many wells as well as cisterns to ease traffic of the many worshippers who came here when cleansing. It was designed in such a way that there was an opening hole that directed the water to the various cisterns. Grand mosque– this is where all the Muslim events were marked. All Muslims would congregate here. Yes, it was such a striking one. It is found at the shores of the beach providing a picturesque view of the ocean barrier used for defense against potential enemies. Tombs– this is where the ruling class were buried with an inscription of ‘every soul shall taste death.’ Market place-this is where most trading occurred from locals and overseas traders.Other things to note as you wander here are the huge baobab trees, Mgalana trees (trichilia roka) and snake trees that shed off their skin. In addition if you love shells that are sold like a gem out there, the ruins houses many of those. Do me proud and collect some.