Mountain Gorillas: A Cautionary Tale

by Michael Holtby (United States of America)

I didn't expect to find Uganda

On my 74th birthday (July 13, 2019), I was very excited with the prospect of being with the mountain gorillas of Uganda, especially as an avid wildlife photographer. I had done a number of African safaris but hesitated spending a lot of money and endure four long flights for only an hour with gorillas - especially with no guarantee we’d find them. But here we were with the Mkiza Gorilla family within ten feet of them! It exceeded my expectations. The gorillas basically ignored us, having been fully habituated to the presence of gawking tourists. I got overly comfortable sitting in front of the big silverback when he got up and walked towards me. I would have been walked over or pushed out of the way if I hadn’t scrambled to my feet and out of his trail. Their faces were as expressive as humans, and when one of their babies cried not only the mother but also the big silverback jumped up to see what the upset was about. He must’ve weighed over three hundred pounds, and moved like an NFL linebacker. Our guides helpfully cut away branches so we had a clear view of the family munching on leaves and stripping branches. I came away with photographs I was pleased with. But here is the cautionary caveats: to get to the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest in the Ruhija Sector we had to drive from the Silverback Lodge (silverbacklodge.com) for two hours. We had what our local guide called an “African Massage” because the roads were so full of ruts and potholes. This is a four wheel drive country where roads are dirt, made worse by rains and lack of grading. We arrived late because our breakfast was served on “African Time”, so we missed the group with the “easy” hike, and the ranger orientation. We were paired with an “intermediate” trekking group. If this was intermediate an advanced trek must include ropes and crampons! It was very hilly, and on the return journey we climbed a half mile hill that was as steep as a staircase, and seemed endless. The walk each way took 2 ½ hours. For my age I’m in reasonable shape, usually doing my 10,000 steps/day with my dog. But this trek made my heart rate soar to the point I seriously thought I might pass out. It began to rain but my poncho was not good on my overheated body. So I got soaked, and of course the hillside turned to slippery mud. Porters only cost $15 so thankfully my wife and I had each hired one. They carried our day packs and cameras, and helped to insure we didn’t lose our balance. But that last, long hill in the rain felt like Mount Everest climbers describe: one foot in front of another, gasping for air - just one more step. My muscles aches, my legs feeling heavy, all exacerbated by the 7,000 foot elevation. I was panting like an overheated dog. In the end my wife’s porter and my own were pushing and pulling me up the hill with many stops so I could catch my breath. The ranger put me at the front of the group so I had to set the pace. He didn’t want the group divided so it was lead by the slowest member. Despite my snail’s pace the others weren’t complaining. I was told afterward that everyone was struggling and appreciated the stops. Knowing that many travelers are close to my age - having the time and money and a bucket list; I would say plan for avoiding an “intermediate” trek, and consider an “advanced” walk only if you’re a mountain climber in exceptional shape. An “easy” walk is one that is shorter with less challenging hills based on where the different gorilla families are. There are advance teams that follow the gorilla groups and radio back where they are located for the rangers leading tourists. So there is only a very small chance you wouldn’t see them at all. Ultimately, despite the challenge, you will regret not going to see the gorillas.