Move above Cakewalk, It's a Walk on the Cake's Icing!

by Tapas Saha (India)

A leap into the unknown India

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A hard desire to travel can land you in hard places. It took me to -20 degree celcius in Leh to do the Chadar Trek on Zanskar River in Laddakh. Being from tropics it's definately Superharsh, but the same also makes you super excited about Snow & everything related to it. From Frozen drains to four clothing layers, from putting salt in toilet after use to the aromatic Kahva (a beverage similar to tea) everything's so new. Being a 23 years old guy also brings new horizons of enthusiasm for such a magical place. Leh in December is purely for Locals & trekkers. You learn something new every second. The Pilot announcing the temprature after landing surely will send literal chills down your spine. P. S. No Road connectivity at that time. You have to be careful about every step on road while wondering how locals are driving on them, which are hard to walk due to hard ice portions. One learns to eat before food freezes & makes friends with hot water. Also if one choses homestay you must try local laddakhi food like Thupka, Skew, Tapu, Butter Tea & the signature diah Chutagi. If you ask they will definately tell you about how it's green during summers not white & dry like winters, how they grow food during those months & store it underground & survive the rest months of the year. Laddakh can survive without connecting to rest of the world, like it has done since ages. It's self sufficient but modern technology has definitely made things easier & them dependent on nearby cities. While you get adjusted to the climate & get yourself medically checked for the adventure you have come here for The Chadar Trek. After getting approved by local doctors & overcoming AMS Its time to roll on the Ice floor. Trek starts from Shingra Koma which is 4 hours from Leh. Almost 65 kms of bliss is on the way. You get to see Patthar Sahib a Gurudwara maintained by Indian Army, The Mysterious Magnetic Hill & lot of the chilly terrain while moving along with the glorious (read FROZEN) Zanskar River, On which you're going to trek for the next 5 days. Trek begins, You fall.... You fall & fall again. Your Gumboots will help you only when you learn to walk like a penguin, along with that 12 kg bag on your back. A place where temprature will drop to drop to a -30 degrees at night & you'll have to sleep in tents. At this temprature your body uses 3 times the energy. You have to keep chocolates & dry fruits handy. Keep sipping water as it's a medicine at this conditions. But what will keep you going is the beauty of what all you'll see. You'll feel water moving below the thick ice sheets. Through the openings please taste the heavenly water of the river. You'll remember it for a lifetime. After trekking for 3 days with just stopping for lunch & tea in day. Staying in tents for night, Watching the ge Clear Starry sky of Laddakh you'll reach your destination The NAEREK Falls, Afrozen waterfall. But not a miniature one as you'll see a lot of smaller ones on the way. This one's Big the moment you'll see it. It will satisfy your soul & will justify your 3 day tear up. While coming back it definately make you philosophical & look into yourself. You'll be proud, happy & content about yourself & your life. Maybe if you start your trek late you can get struck on the way back & get rescued by the Indian Army as happened with the group after mine. In the End I would like to say Chadar Trek is definately not a Cakewalk, but it's definately walk on the Cake's Icing, slippery & tasty.