North - find one world

by Shriharsh Kaushik (India)

A leap into the unknown Norway

Day 23 9th August 2019 Pyramiden What a day spent on a ship in the arctic sea We were traveling to a.glacier and the Russian Settelment of Pyramiden. We boarded the ship named Billedjord. Our host today was a charming lady Who orientated us to the ship and shared details of the days plan. She informed us that she would keep talking to us at intervals informing about the history, geography, and everything that we would like know about Svalbard. Then she talked about the history of Svalbard, I finally found the answers to several question, regarding why did we have to clear immigration in Norway? Is this place another country ? What’s the connection with Norway ? While I was engrossed in this history lecture, we had set sail, From the sea one could see the vast barren island with several snow peaks all around. Most of the view was like watching barren brown mountains with some snow peaks, again I could notice an uncomfortable stillness all around may be it was because of the absence of trees or birds. Few of us climbed over the captains cabin for a better view. Clicked pictures and enjoyed the sea breeze, it was cold but comfortable. There was some kind of stillness which made me uncomfortable, and sad. The geology talk started and she made a very powerful comment, she said “ for the last few hundred years everyone came to Svalbard to exploits it of it’s coal, mineral,and natural resource - whale and seal hunting” Now people come here for the right reasons to study the glaciers, tourism or protect their seed in the seed vault. She said Svalbard is truly an international community, no one needs visa to enter Svalbard and live here, the current resident population of over 2500 come from over 50 different nationalities it’s governed by Norway but has no military. Only one police man. One governor and loads of peace. Kept thinking many more places in the world need to turn into international communities, nothing to divide people, no wars, no conflict, you own everything and nothing at the same time. What will it take for us to live without boundaries, without countries, without military , without police, without rules, without war, without conflict, without religion, without language, without differentiating identities. Will it be possible to have such a place in this world and how can it be brought to existence? After sailing for over three and half hours we reached the Pyramiden glaciers. It was beautiful but didn’t experience the awe that most people were experiencing. I think I had seen far more magnificent glaciers in Greenland and also seen the Perito Moreno. We were treated to whisky on the glacier rock - they picked an small iceberg. Post this we set sail towards the town of Pyramiden. For lunch they had barbecued pork meat and whale meat. As we finished lunch, we docked at a old, rusted and abandoned jetty. Few people carrying guns were there to receive us. Our host told us for the next two hours these people from Pyramiden will take us around. They were carrying guns to protect us from any possible bear attack. These were Russian people who live here in this mining town which was abandoned in 20 years back. Pyramiden is an abandoned Russian coal mining settlement. It was fun visiting this place. It gives you feeling how USSR functioned. The buildings still stand tall and are in good shape, very little decay. The family quarter in old days was called a mad house is still a mad house as now is a nesting ground for birds and still very nosy. The swimming Pool, the auditorium and the cafeteria, the hospital, single men and women’s hotel buildings looked like they can be put to use even today. Saw the northern most Lenin bust still standing erect. Two hrs later we were back on our ship sailing back to Longyearbyen. I spent some time in cockpit with the caption and then caught a nap. Then listened to one more talk by our host and 3hrs later, around 8pm, we were back in the docks.