As I draw near to the village, I feel like I am journeying back to ancient times. It is exceptionally quiet, apart from the occasional call to prayer, and appears almost abandoned, in complete contrast to the city of Aswan. Dusty deserted roads, a shepherd ushering sheep, tuk-tuks zipping by, several camels, but especially distinctive are the brightly coloured houses. The road through the village’s Bazaar is very narrow and meandering, and contrary to my initial impression, incredibly lively, overflowing with people both locals and tourists alike selling, bargaining and browsing. Some men who are gathered around a fire in a front yard holler out to invite me in for tea. The scent of spices and fragrances emanating from the market stores waft in the delicate evening breeze, and I am advanced by women and children selling handmade goods. As I continue to walk through the market – gazing, daydreaming, and absorbing the sights – I turn my head and am taken aback as I come face-to-face with a camel. Returning from the market, a gentleman pulls up on his ride. Man: Hey Nubian. Me: Hi *smile*. Man: You’re very beautiful, how old are you - 26? I'm 27. Me: *thinking* yeah, sure you are! Man: Do you want to ride on my camel?! Me: *shock* *thinking* Do I look like the kind of lady that rides on anyone’s camel? I’m old enough to be your mother *laughs*. I am on the west bank of the Nile, just outside of Aswan in Gharb Soheil, one of the 60 Nubian villages in Upper Egypt. The ancient civilization of Nubia is based along the Nile River, located in what is today Northern Sudan and Southern Egypt. Both Nubia and Egypt were the centre of Africa's main cultures, with each ruling over each other, and unified on many occasions. The ancient Nubian (Kushite) civilization is one of if not the oldest in the world. Lodging at the large, vibrantly coloured Ekadolli guesthouse (Nubian for “I like you”), guesthouse owner Khaled makes me feel like part of the family immediately upon entering. He received me with an authentically warm smile, glistening eyes and a firm handshake. Khaled invited me to lunch with him, the food was a plentiful mixture of rice, potatoes, beans, okra, flatbreads, salad and a minty juice. He educated me on Nubian living, traditions and culture. Numerous Nubians were forced to relocate when the Aswan high dam was built in the 1960s due to flooding. At this time, much of Nubia’s history disappeared underwater. Larger monuments, like the infamous Abu Simbel, were salvaged and relocated. Many Nubians are still seeking recompense. Abu Simbel is a celebrated Nubian monument built by Ramses II and is an obligatory visit. Being close to the Sudan border, it required a 03.30 am wake-up call. The voyage is approximately a three-hour drive from the city of Aswan across a sea of sand with countless mini pyramids appearing along the way. I even spied a mirage, and though there was nothing but desert, I immediately felt compelled to run to the sheet of water. My mind was playing tricks on me – logic would tell me that it couldn’t possibly be nature’s nectar, yet I still desired to move to it. Upon reaching Abu Simbel, after being dropped off at the parking lot I walked eagerly for approximately five minutes towards the temple. As I marched around the corner of the cliff I sighted the four colossal statues of the pharaoh faced towards the sun, looking out over the crystal-clear waters of Lake Nasser. My jaw opens and my eyes widen as I hoist my neck in amazement before entering the temple adorned floor-to-ceiling with glorious hieroglyphics illustrating the victorious battles of Pharaoh Ramses II. I found it hard to sleep that night, my spirit felt like it was travelling through the afterlife. Khaled studied at Cairo University and had verbal altercations with lecturers because of the exclusion of Nubian pharaohs. The lecturer agreed with Khaled but maintained that is what they have to teach. Khaled declared “look at their features, they are mine”. Indeed they are, the Nubian civilization is not lost, but forgotten.