Oaxacan Adventures; Passion Found in the Unknown

by Brittany Kell (United States of America)

A leap into the unknown Mexico

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Oaxacans are not bothered by anything. Rain pours down upon them and no one flinches, squinches their face, or tries to get out of it. Car alarms sound on and off every few minutes during the quiet part of the afternoon and no one squirms in annoyance or even acknowledges a disruption in their relaxed, tranquilo lifestyles. I’m astounded by these things because everyone functions calmly in what we would call, in the US, complete chaos. Nectarine-sized beetles pile up on their backs, flailing in the streets at night while children kick them around like a soccer ball. The heat beats down on us all, all day, and Oaxacans don’t notice. No one has air conditioning and you rarely hear of anyone using a fan. Everyone seems completely untouched by the notion of discomfort. After exploring the streets the past two days I’m completely overwhelmed by the differences here. Everyone, instead of focusing on the negativo they are instead consumed with the pasión of their everyday lives. Even though it’s as hot as a Georgia summer in July at noon all day here, no one is effected by anything us Americans find annoying or inconvenient. Jovenes as well as adults are often seen intertwined in fiery embraces; kissing, touching, and laughing on the streets, in cafés and lying in the window sills of the enormous Baroque Iglesia de Santo Domingo in the center of Oaxaca. Yesterday, our study abroad group toured the city including the largest church I’ve ever set foot in, the zocalo, and the mercado. Along the streets everyone greets you with the hope you’ll purchase their handmade crafts at an escalated price because they know you’re a tourist. These crafts could include anything from a small painted wooden bookmark, to a hand-woven hammock, to a basket full of roasted spicy grasshoppers. Regardless of your taste in items homemade, Oaxaca boasts something for everyone in the convenience of the street. I enjoy conversing with these street vendors most of the time until they follow you to the restaurant you’re dining in and plead with you to purchase a bag or scarf. The first stop we made yesterday was the church of Santo Domingo which boasted architecture that took my breath away. I’ve never seen something so huge and beautifully hand-crafted. Upon entering, a moment of silence and deep respect fills your entire soul as you take in the hand-sculpted figures of saints stretching up to the ceiling. There are more than you can count or identify but everything is covered in gold leaf and it’s absolutely breath-taking. We spent some time listening to the history and admiring the craftsmanship before visiting my favorite place: the convent-turned-hotel. Quinta Real used to be a convent and many of the elements have been preserved or restored to keep the history alive. The courtyards and gardens are still magnificently rich with color and life while a creeping feeling of comfort consumes everyone as they encounter this brilliant piece of history. After a brief siesta I traveled with my roommate Elizabeth from Chicago with her friends to a plaza dedicated to nieves (a new and interesting form of ice cream). We talked of school, home, and family while we enjoyed our cold treat. Lovers held each other by the fountain in the dimly lit area while a man walked around playing songs unknown on his accordion. Once we finished our treat we made the long walk back to our homestay while a stray dog followed us the entire way. We named him Lucas and he never left our side. My Spanish is bad but my curiosity is plentiful as I’ve learned countless amounts of things each second I’m here. It’s hot, I can’t get used to the food, and sleeping doesn’t come easy or quickly, but I couldn’t be more ready to discover what Oaxaca will teach me every day.