Peace and Power in Montserrat

by Randi Delano (Czech Republic)

I didn't expect to find Spain

She grabbed my arm, a signal to stop. In a low, excited whisper she said “Look, there!” and pointed. A deer…no a goat, or some strange, straight-horned mix of the two stood perfectly still, just a few feet away, staring at us apprehensively. Moments later he leapt down the side of the cliff. Three of his companions, that seemed to materialize out of thin air, crossed our path and followed him. I later found out from our guide that the creatures we saw were called Montserrat Goats and could only be found in the very hills we were hiking. I had traveled by bus from Barcelona the day prior. From a distance the multiple peaks that make up the Montserrat mountain range resembled giant spearheads carved from stone by ancient warriors for hunting and protection. Nestled among the jagged range is the idyllic Benedictine monastery, Santa Maria de Montserrat. Standing in the square outside of the monastery I noticed that the air was unusually clean and pure, the bright blue sky was filled with puffy white clouds, and the energy from the mountain felt like an ever-present force pressing on my skin. In an instant the serene and quiet setting changed as the bells tolled from an unseen location. The deafening sound demanded my full attention and made me acutely aware that something important was about to happen. The call to worship had begun and all were beckoned inside the sanctuary. Once I crossed through the massive doors darkness surrounded me and a few moments passed before I could make out the interior. Aside from a few footsteps the silence implied a certain reverent and serious behavior was required inside this space. I was keenly aware that it was a special place for those who attended for spiritual reasons. From the brotherhood of monks that sat in large wooden chairs on the main altar, to the believers who prayed in the pews, to the secular visitors like me who were there to admire the beauty of mankind’s creativity, we all had a reason for existing in this space. The smell of incense and burning wax and wick hung in the air. The singing chants of the monks and the eventual performance of the boys choir that the monastery is known for all lent to a peaceful setting regardless of individual beliefs. The next morning I met a small group of travelers at 6:00 am to set off in search of a view of the sunrise from the hilltop named St. Michael’s Cross. The panorama was stunning, the wind was brisk, and the sky was filled with flat grey clouds that blocked the morning light. Nevertheless we began a hike into the mountains that took us to over a 1,000 meters above sea level. In the hours that followed I filled my lungs with pure mountain air. I was one with nature, hiking through the wooded terrain past its fauna; goats, snakes, and wild boar among others. My senses were bombarded by the smells emitted from fragrant flowering bushes and the green, brown, and red colors from the trees, earth, and rocks that surrounded. The ever-present feeling of tranquility and power from the mountain was inescapable. By the end of the five hour hike my mind was open and clear and a feeling of peace lingered with me for days. An experience I will never forget. Montserrat is filled with important religious sites like the monastery, the famous Black Madonna, and various other sacred symbols. But it was something more mysterious, less tangible that moved me here. Something more powerful than man made structures and handiwork. Something beyond this world and my own comprehension.