Port St. Johns: A Rural Adventure

by Wandile Zwane (South Africa)

I didn't expect to find South Africa

2019 was the year I left the comfort and predictability of my hometown, and ventured into the unknown. I left Newcastle, a coal mining and steel production town, for the rural coastal town of Port St. Johns. The images of pristine beaches on the internet had me preparing to spend most of my days on the beaches of Port St. Johns, basking in the winter sun. Little did I know I was about to embark on an adventure. Port St. Johns is a rural town located on the Wild Coast in the Eastern Cape province of South Africa. It is the land of the Xhosa and Pondo people. A town where nature, traditional and modern life merge to form a beautiful community. Feel like sunbathing with cattle? Spend some time on Second Beach. You're never alone on this serene place. The local cattle enjoy a good sunbathe like the next person, until the local dogs enter the scene to disrupt the peace. Want to meet eccentric characters? Go to Amampondo Backpackers. It's not the most luxurious of places, but definitely the most interesting, and noisy during weekends. People from different walks of life are drawn to that place. My favourite memory is the drumming sessions around the bonfire, provided by the resident barman during blackouts. Want to experience nature? Take a hike to First Beach and Bulolo Waterfall. These hikes are literally "The Journey of Life". It feels like you're hiking for your life, with every imaginable obstacle in your way. But the journey is worth it once you reach the final destinations; a waterfall with a pool for cooling off after hiking, and a beautiful isolated beach with magnificent views. Need an adventure? Go kayaking at the Umzimvubu River. The views are stunning, and there's an even audience. In our case, it was a lady who kept going on and on about the boats toppling over, and water creatures hiding beneath the Umzimvubu River, which increased my fear levels from 0 to 100 within minutes. Please don't judge me for being fearful. I live in a town where Mamlambo, a mythical creature with a body of a fish, short legs and the neck of a snake is believed to reside in the Ncandu River. Want to experience the traditional Xhosa life, visit Sis' Nomawethu at the Mthumbane Village for a hearty plate of Umngqusho (samp and beans), and chicken stew. Umngqusho is a traditional Xhosa dish, made with crushed corn kernels (samp), sugar beans, butter and onions. Potatoes and spices can also be added as variations. Need some healing? Drive out to Isinuka Springs and Mudcaves, where locals believe that dipping in the reddish sulphur pools cleanses bad luck and misfortunes. The alkaline mud from the Mudcaves, which is also sold by the local ladies, is good for the skin. It is used as sunscreen, and helps clear acne. Want to make a difference in the community? Volunteer at one of the local schools. The majority of schools in Port St Johns are underdeveloped. I volunteered at Mthumbane Pre-School, a lovely kindergarten located on a hill with magnificent views of the Indian Ocean. The school is run by Mam' Nonkuselelo, a lady who is fiercely protective over her children. Nonkuselelo means, "One Who Protects" in isiXhosa. I helped out mostly in the kitchen. There are more than 40 children. Three meals a day need to be prepared, and more than 40 dishes need to be washed, three times a day. My time in Port St Johns was truly memorable, and also very challenging. I learnt a lot about myself while bring there, like my levels of resilience and courage. I also made a few connections with people from all walks of life. The connections I made are fellow Africans, Germans, Austrian, French and members of the local community.