Pura Vida Costa Rica - Nothing but Life

by Bilge Danyeli (Germany)

Making a local connection Costa Rica

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My journey began with a fifteen-hour plane ride from Germany; the furthest I’ve ever been away from home. I had no idea what to expect from this small country on the other side of the globe, except that it was ranked consistently as one of the happiest places in the world. Costa Rica is a tropical paradise located in Central America. It is a peaceful country with no military presence for the past 60 years and is powered almost entirely on green energy. As soon as I got out at the airport in San Jose my host family welcomed me with the words “Pura Vida, Bilge”. I learned quickly that “Pura Vida” would be the first Spanish phrase to learn in Costa Rica. It can be translated as the attitude that Ticos (Costa Ricans) harbour towards life, appreciating the simple things in life, the vibe you will find across the country. And the good life is exactly what Costa Rica is famous for with its unique wildlife, pristine natural beauty and amazing beaches - a paradise which needs to be protected. I wanted more from my travel experience than just to bathe in its majesty and to truly immerse myself in the culture and do something meaningful for this beautiful country. After taking Spanish classes in the capital, I decided to volunteer in an environmental project in Tortuguero, an island in Costa Rica’s north Caribbean coast. As I drove out of San Jose and its suburbs by a local bus, the gleaming shopping malls, and dense urban development of Costa Rica’s capital slowly melted away. When I arrived in Bataan, a small town in the countryside with strong Afro-Caribbean cultural heritage, it started raining. It was not the heavy downpour that was yet to come since it was raining season, but rather a slow steady trickle of rain enough to freshen the air and dampen the earth. Walking around the streets, local shopkeepers welcomed me warmly into their fruit shops selling Chiquita bananas, mango and pineapple juices. The fruits were delicious and grew almost wild in Costa Rica. One old man offered me a cup of coffee. He told me that the beans were from his own coffee plantation with a big smile on his face. He showed some coffee cherries as they appear when freshly picked, while passionately explaining the process that separates fresh beans from their skins. I could feel his love and passion for his work radiating through our talks. I was lucky to taste the freshest cup of coffee I have ever had, and it was rich, flavourful and delicious. This cup of coffee was certainly more than just a caffeine boost – it was a taste of Costa Rican culture. The slow pace, the small-town hospitality, the vibrant environment, and you feel it the moment you enter this place. This was traditional Costa Rica, at its absolute best. A 45-minute boat trip to the project destination revealed unique wildlife alongside some of the country’s most stunning natural landscapes. The river grew wilder with every meter, crocodiles soaked up the hot sun on the sandy riverbanks. We had iguanas and monkeys following the sound of our boat. I got used to how quiet this place was: no cars, no buses, just the occasional hum of the boat's motor and the rain trickling on the river. What awaited me beyond was a sight so magnificent. I stood there in stunned silence for a moment, seeing enormous waves of the Caribbean Sea crashing against the black volcanic beach while palm trees were swaying in the breeze. At this point, I realized what a hidden gem the island was. No electricity. No warm water. No WIFI. Accessible only by boat. I felt like I had found a tropical paradise. Unfortunately, Costa Rica’s sea turtle population has declined by a devastating 90 per cent over the past 35 years due to a host of factors, illegal egg poaching and hunting for sea turtles, climate change, plastic pollution and beach erosion are threatening the survival of the already critically endangered animals. Costa Rica has important nesting sites in the world for endangered turtles. Volunteers play an important role in changing this situation.