Reconnecting with the rustic beauty of Northern Montenegro

by Jovan Radnic (Montenegro)

Making a local connection Montenegro

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It was 11 am when my phone beeped. There was a text from my boss saying he was 10 minutes out. We were going to Northern Montenegro, a place that does not exist on the map for many people. For years nobody knew where Montenegro was, but recent coverage of our coast and its features such as luxurious resorts, old towns that are compared to Medieval Venice, and small rocky beaches that are hidden pearls of the Adriatic caused a spike in tourism. For those who have heard of Montenegro, that is the image of the country that they have. Playground for the rich all throughout the coast. Largely unknown, the tall mountain massifs, ranging from family-friendly to some of Europe’s wildest places, are all in Northern Montenegro. The North, where tourism is growing but not at such a staggering rate, is the opposite though. Rural areas are predominant in this part of the country, where travelers will often get curious looks and warm invitations to stop for coffee. As a Montenegrin, this strongly resonates with me. We want to show them how proud we are of what we have, and we want them to leave Montenegro with a nice story to tell. This hospitality is, unsurprisingly, what we encounter at Katun Goleš. Katun is not a name, it is a type of rustic village made of humble cabins that are located high up in the mountains. In the past, villagers would take their livestock to highlands during the summer months. It was an important community ritual that was crucial in the ongoing cycle of producing organic food which many villagers relied on for survival. Katuns are always in remote areas that are often accessible only on foot, and they are always surrounded by the lush forests and glacial lakes. Most katuns died out as an increasing number of Montenegrins saw the perfect concrete cities as a better future than the rough stones and muddy trails they knew too well.. The ones that survived, such as Goleš, are open to travelers nowadays. A strong, reserved young man greets us as we approach. He invites us to sit as he pours an obligatory rakija. This traditional Montenegrin spirit made from fermented fruit leaves a sharp, strong feeling in your stomach. It has the punch of vodka with a taste that reminds me of the mountains. Rakija is believed to possess medicinal benefits (locals swear it’s true), and a stomach opener which is why it’s always traditionally served as an aperitif. Suddenly, Miloš’ wife and mother appear carrying a variety of traditional meals. Their postures are distinct, reflecting the pride of Montenegrin village women. Strong women like this were the pillars of katuns in the old days. Freshly baked wheat bread, a smoked Montenegrin ham called pršut, white cow cheese, potato mash with sticky cheese known as kačamak, and a fresh salad made of vegetables grown in the garden are sitting on homemade wooden trays . As we dig in, Miloš tells us the story of Goleš. It has been a part of his family heritage for generations. In the land of Montenegro, the family name carries a certain weight and Miloš’ is no exception. He is a Bulatović. Like his dad before and his children in the future, the Bulatović name would be associated with Goles Katun. His father passed recently and it was a loss for the whole mountain. He was a respected man that set the vision for Goleš as a fairytale destination. Looking out from Goleš, I can see flowing waves of endless mountains deep into the horizon. Purple sky plays into the enchanting feeling this whole place gives. This is the view nobody can forget. It’s more than a view, it’s a story that has lived on for generations and when you are there, you feel like you are the part of the story. It’s not just a story about Goleš, but katuns in general in Montenegro and how they are able to encapture you with their raw beauty. That beauty speaks of Northern Montenegro.