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My adrenaline is soaring as the ranger signals me to move closer to the Komodo dragon. It feels like I am so near that if he strikes I will be his next meal. After a relationship breakup I decided to “take a leap into the unknown”. I hoped the isolation, warmth and challenge of the destination would soothe my soul. In group travel I could be withdrawn or social so unexpectedly I pay for a 5 day sea kayaking adventure in Indonesia which includes a trek in search of Komodo dragons. The trip involves paddling in 2-person kayaks between 10-18 km per day. Most likely to be oldest in the group, I begin an intense training regime, afraid of letting down my unknown kayaking buddy. My trip starts in Labuan Bajo on Flores Island, Indonesia an hour’s flight from Bali. Part of East Nusa Tenggara province which also includes Komodo National Park. Labuan Bajo is significantly under-developed compared to Bali where the smell of sea rather than vehicle emissions is a welcome change. Our guide Matteus is a true local: bred, born and living in the region which immediately instills a level of confidence. My 7 fellow kayakers span 4 continents ranging to 52 years old (me) with varying degrees of English. I am paired with the youngest in the group! It is obvious that Matteus is proud to be Indonesian and show us this “road less travelled”. He explains that no soaps or shampoos are permitted and we must leave camp as if we were never there. He intimately understands the importance of sustainability as a birthright rather than from any book. A support boat accompanies us to provide sanctuary to weary kayakers and a rest place during the heat of the day. Its upper deck is fitted with shade, bean bags and lounges so it’s the ideal place to chill or jump off when you get too hot. Meals are prepared on the boat and served on board or on the beach. The sea is calm and welcoming as Matteus demonstrates the basics of paddling. Suddenly he points in the direction of a dot in the vast sea, and we are off! Moving away from shore the colours and the clarity of the water is mesmerising. We pass over coral so close we can touch it and taste the salt as the waves lap the side of our kayak. We are physically weary as that dot becomes an island and lunch is called. The meal is tasty and plentiful – fresh seafood, bread rolls filled with custard or meat (a lucky dip) and salad. Time to rest, snorkel and swim before kayaking to another dot in the distance. It is late afternoon when we glimpse a deserted island where camp is being set up. We snorkel off the beach where the coral and sea life colours resemble a richly woven carpet. No lights, hotels, cars, or technology here and I am overwhelmed how strikingly beautiful and untouched is this region. After dinner and a briefing, the crew moves the boat offshore to sleep leaving the kayakers in the deep stillness of the evening. This daily routine is interspersed with visiting stilted fishing villages, island schools and walks. Paddling through some large straits we are often accompanied by dolphins and turtles adding another dimension to the trip. One night at the briefing Matteus simply says “tomorrow we search for Komodo dragons”. Rinca, part of a UNESCO Heritage Site, is one of five islands in the world where Komodo dragons (Varanus komodoensis) survive in their natural habitat. Growing up to 3 metres in length and weighing up to 150 kg they can reach speeds of 20 km per hour. We meet our local ranger who will accompany us on the hike. We only walk a short distance before we a “dragon”. The group freezes in silence and suddenly cameras are grabbed, photos snapped and fear side-lined for a moment. The guide then offers each person to move closer and everyone declines until me. This is my “unknown”, my “leap”, my “now or never” and afterwards I am thrilled to be alive!