Taking the Plunge with Great Whites

by Kieran Walsh (Canada)

A leap into the unknown South Africa

The great white shark is the stuff of legend – and of nightmare. From “Jaws” to “Shark Week”, the animal is seen as something to be awed – and feared. I’ve always been fascinated by sharks, and while I would never consider myself one with a phobia of the ocean’s largest predatory fish, I did feel a certain level of trepidation when venturing inside a steel cage to view the animals. A recent trip to Cape Town, South Africa offered the once in a lifetime opportunity to dive with white sharks near the famed Dyer Island, in an area known as Shark Alley. I am picked up in Cape Town at 5:00am and join the others who are also on this adventure. We wind our way through hills and valleys, as the early morning darkness turns to light. As we get closer, the quiet chit chat on the bus turns to a nervous energy. Finally we reach the town of Kleinbaai, 160 kilometres south-east of Cape Town. Upon arrival, we are assured that our adventure is carried out with the shark’s well-being in mind. We will not be feeding the sharks for two reasons. First, it is illegal; and second, it is important to ensure that the sharks do not associate humans with food. I find this comforting as the time comes to board the boat and motor out seven kilometres onto the Atlantic Ocean. Upon arrival at our destination, we anchor and the water is chummed with fish oil in an effort to attract sharks through scent. I jump at the opportunity to get in first, figuring that if I do not, I may see something that will prevent me from getting in later. I suit up in wetsuit and weight belt as the first shouts of “Shark!” pierce the calm blue morning sky. This is great! Yet as I peer out and see that trademark fin cutting through the water’s surface, the boat, all of sudden, seems a lot smaller. And now I’m about to get even closer? In a steel cage? The cage is lowered into the water and secured to the side of the boat. Its capacity is five divers and one by one we lower ourselves in as our newly arrived companion circles the boat. Our ship’s crew entices him by pulling tuna heads on a hook through the water, although they never allow him close enough to eat. Once in the water, we must hold onto the cage on the appropriate bars so as not to allow any extremities of the body to dangle outside. Then, as our crew works diligently to lure the shark ever closer to the cage, we wait for the command “Down!” At this, we submerge and find ourselves face to face with one of the most feared and ferocious animals of the wild – in its territory. On this morning, we see seven sharks in all. And what a show! We get an up close and personal view of the rows of razor sharp teeth as several of the fish show great curiosity and make contact with the cage. The sheer mass and dexterity of the creatures is amazing to view, as their large, muscular frames slice through the water with tremendous ease and precision. I am mesmerized and petrified at once by the rhythmic dance: circle, approach, retreat, circle again… During our expedition, our onboard marine biologist shares a wealth of information about the misunderstood great white. She assures us that the shark has no interest in eating us and that the majority of shark attacks on humans happen when the human is mistaken for some other sea creature – most likely a seal. Prior to getting into the water that morning, I had seen sharks on television innumerable times. In many ways, the reality was exactly what I expected. I felt safe from the cold comfort of the cage, and a thrill like none other at seeing a great white face to face. However, the experience goes beyond the small screen. As I sailed back into Kleinbaai, I came away with a new understanding and appreciation for one of the most feared creatures in the world.