The Flickering Khemr

by Dineth Mallikarachchy (Sri Lanka)

Making a local connection Thailand

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Thailand is a wonderful country. As soon as you step into the big, crowded capital, you feel that the whole world is concentrated there . But when you are an hour and a half away from the capital, you will find yourself in some surprisingly quiet areas. I boarded into a bus to Buriram from Bangkok , from the Chatuchak Bus station at around 6 am. By about eight thirty, the bus reached Buriram township. Buriram Province is located near the Thailand-Cambodia border in eastern Thailand. The province was once , one of the strongholds of the Khmer Empire, which reached its peak during 11th and 12th centuries based in modern-day Cambodia. Therefore, the majority of the people still living here are of Khmer descent, and the whole area is covered with ruins of Khmer-style temples. Of these, my stop was the Phanom Rung Temple. If you want to experience solitude, relaxation and quietness, and all the curiosity that comes with it all, you should come to the Phnom Rung Temple, which is situated on an expired volcano. Since the are was not subjected to direct invasions and due to the sudden abandonment of the kingdom, the ruins of this millennium old city are unbelievably protected and intact. The Khmer Empire ascended to its heyday after they acquired the trade activities along Mekong River. The temple was built by Narendra Ditya, a descendant of Emperor Suriya Varman, who built the world famous Angkor Wat temple in Cambodia. Both of these two kings paid special attention to irrigation and agriculture. Arming the entire region with a group of interconnected irrigation works, they started mega scale rice farming for the first time in the world history. There is another intriguing backdrop to this story. At that time, Sri Lanka's irrigation industry was at its peak and probably was the best of that in the world. By this time, the two kings Vijayabahu I and Parakramabahu I who ruled sri lanka , keeping the city polonnaruwa as the capital had shown keen interest in maintaining links with the Khmer Empire, which eventually resulted in a number of economic and religious transactions between two regions. The knowledge of the irrigation industry in Sri Lanka belonged to the people of the Naga(Naga in esthetic languages means cobra) tribe. When they came here and built the irrigation works, they marked their emblem with the cobra hood mark, which was the tribal endorsement of the Naga, at these temples. The famous Naga landmark, which is found in Phanom Rung temple in Buriram Province Thailand, is an evolution of the original Naga mark which is still present in Sri Lanka. The Khemr version of Naga mark is abundantly present in everywhere around the Angor Wat, Cambodia too. Even today, Thailand's most fertile farmlands are in Buriram Province. The brown Jasmine rice, which is considered the most expensive rice variety in the world, is also grown in this province. Cultivation of brown Jasmine rice requires a very specific background and chemical composition of the soil. This conditions are fulfilled in Buriram area , by the eruption of the above volcano and the accumulation of lava in the surrounding area in ancient times . This exact environmental setting is found nowhere in the world except Buriram, Thailand. The eastern province of Buriram and its road to Cambodia reactivated after a series of Indo-Chinese civil conflicts that sparked the region in sixties and seventies .The third Indo Chinese war (also known as the Vietnam war) and the Khemr Rough insurrection were two of the main events in this regard. The main exchange center for American soldiers who went to the Vietnam War, was located in Bangkok, Thailand. To coincide with the emergence of a sex workers' market in Bangkok to provide services to these soldiers, a new sex market based in the Buriram Province and Western Cambodia was also created. After the crisis was settled, the sex workers' market in Bangkok grew freely, and the province of Buriram became to be known as a hub which provides young girls. I knew all this, but I never thought that the information would come alive and encounter me during this journey. The driver who was hired by me got up and started chatting with me shortly afterwards the journey started . His first question after getting friendly with me was, "Do you want to have the comfort of a young girl?". Upon further inquiries, I found out that he is a sex broker who looks up for customers for sex workers in addition to his official duty , driving. I was blown away after hearing the age of the girl whom he can arrange for me , and also the age of this blooming young man. According to him , there are young girls from 14 years and above. This young man is twenty years old. I felt helpless and hopeless , knowing for pretty sure that the young girls and this boy were helpless too. According to him, sleeping with one of those women is a help to their society. According to him, this would be an act of highest pinnacle even in line with Theravada Buddhism which is adhered by this young fellow, the young girls he has to offer and the vast majority of people in this area and my self from Sri Lanka. Unfortunately, that was not the time to contribute to such a good deed. When looking from above the Phanom Rung mountain , the surrounding area looks like an evergreen field of lush vegetation. When this majestic temple is added to the above backdrop, what one can feel is just amazing. But when you look beyond the landscape deep into the human lives of the area, you will hear the real mourning of the land. There is an ancient Zen story that says that happiness and sadness, and excitement and indifference are two couples of twin brothers who join hands frequently. I flew from Buriram province to Bangkok with a no-interference approach in mind