The Hidden Albanian Face

by Jelena Lugonja (Bosnia & Herzegovina)

A leap into the unknown Albania

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Searching for peace and comfort needed to write a book, I went to a place where no one lives but someone is always there. Ever since I heard of Skadar, home of the famous Skadar Castle I had known it is just a question of time before I visit it. Driving along the Lake Skadar my eyes were wide open, absorbing unspoiled nature in the distance. Locals stood by the side of the road selling garden produce. Neither the sun can stop them, nor the heat drive them away. Just like me, my idea of visiting their country that captivated my imagination. “Welcome to Shkodër,” a voice broke my silence. “Shkodër?” I said suprisingly. The man was getting far away, leaving me confused. No traffic lights in the city. Just more and more cars. More and more people. I was stuck, could not open the car door. Suddenly, I felt the rhythm of Skadar. No panic and no move. I opened the window and asked about Skadar’s fortress. Albanians just laughed and took pictures of me. Some of them opened windows just to wave. After half an hour I kept on driving. Luckily, the police stopped me. “This road is blocked. Use detour through street Vilson,” police officer said. “Could you please direct me to the Skadar Castle?” I replied. “Skadar?”, he asked confusedly. He was looking at me for a while, then took a gander at my car registration. “Bosnia and Herzegovina, welcome to Shkodër”, he said. He explained that the locals have a different name for the city, Shkodër. In addition, there is no Skadar Castle but Rozafa Castle above the city. I followed roadsides signs until I got lost. Narrow uphill gravel road and gorgeous scenery. Eventually, a truck appeared I decided to follow. After 15 minutes of driving there was the end of the road. Apart from the dust it was hard to see anything. I walked away to explore the unknown place. All of a sudden, I saw a huge tunnel. I just wanted to take a shelter in a shade. Oddly, but there was a man selling castle tickets. Luckily, he was fluent in English and told me a story about Rozafa Castle. The castle is a memorable legend about three brothers married to three beautiful wives. They worked all day, to build a castle, but the walls would fall down at night. One day, they met an old man who advised them to sacrifice someone and buried one of the wives in the wall of the castle. They agreed that the first wife who brings lunch would be sacrificed. The two older brothers explained the situation to their wives. However, the youngest brother said nothing to his wife. The day after, Rozafa, the wife of the youngest brother, came with lunch. The Rozafa’s husband told her that she had to be sacrificed and buried in the walls of the castle so that they could finish building it. She accepted, but under one condition- the brothers would leave a hole for her breast so she could feed her newborn. Rozafa sacrificed her life for something bigger. I walked into the courtyard of a magnificient castle. Impressive scenery. View over the lake was splendid. I was there. At the place where no one lives but someone is always there. Rozafa, a strong woman. Her hidden face occupied my mind. Suddenly, i felt excitement and joy. I could see Montenegrin border and feel my Herzegovinina home. Being in Albania is like being home. Looking the sky, smelling the air full of legends, I was wondering if there was a better place to start my first step into my book.