The other way to Machu Picchu and back

by Andrea Dajak (Croatia)

A leap into the unknown Peru

Visiting Machu Picchu isn't just buying ticket, finding transport, making a short climb and ta-daa there it is! It wasn't built for nothing so high up, practically untouchable, hidden from the sight, closer to the Sun... With all that realized, I wanted to spice up my visit by making my own way - solo on a motorcycle! Living on a motorcycle and owning two, renting one in Cusco was a piece of cake. Made arrangements, checked the map, knew I was ready. Being a travel guide by profession, getting around even without Peruvian sim card and GPS gave me confiedence to start making my way through Cusco traffic; somehow I just have to do it the harder way! Checking all the route on the way, reading the only two blogs I could find about it, I realized there is going to be riding in lowlands, Sacred valley of Incas, but also that I will be passing the highest pass I've ever been so far - Abra Malaga at 4213m asl! Well, passed that also like a glove, with rain following me from that point onwards, so I had to manage with using plastic bags as a "rain moto equipment", not the first I was doing it so it came automatticaly. Reached the closest you can ride to Machu Picchu, a small place called Hidroelectrica where I stored safely my bike and the equipment, thought of jumping on a train to Aguas Calientes where I had my hostel reserved, when I was told the train does not run so late in the day... I couldn't believe it, after all that two wheeled adventure that day, another one - walking solo 10kms in the night following the railways with one to accompany me but the headlamp I had brought, just in case... And yes, that was case. Oh yes, I did have company afterall - rain following me for most of my way! Determined to reach Aguas Calientes that night, have a rest and enter Machu Picchu early in the morning, not even the thought of some puma or wild boar could scare me off my plan. I think my determination could be felt in the air, and scared them off! The following went by the plan, walked some 30kms in and around the Sacred city, walked down from, walked again back to Hidroelectrica, the rode back to Santa Teresa on my favorite type of road - gravel (yeeey) , gave myself a two day break with a visit to their thermas to ease off the pain in muscles from so much walking so after two days I was ready to go back to Cusco. Well, that's when it turned into real adventure - motorcycle started turning off... Waited for it to cool off, nothing. Checked the celphone for signal, also nothing. When the rain started, I stopped the first car and it happened to be two guys both mechanics, havung their own bikes and living just a house below. Great, thank you, universe! Assuming the problem we cleaned the carburator and the spark plug, since both were in a bad condition, but still it wouldn't start without being pushed for having some electrical problems. Well, not the first nor the last time of doing it so I thanked the guys and moved on all happy and hoping to get to Cusco. Would it be a true adventure if it all goes as planned?? The bike couldn't make it to Cusco, but luckily it had stopped where at least I could get a signal to call the agency to pick me and the bike up. While waiting for them I felt sad for not being able to finish my adventure as planned, but then again, that's what made my adventure a tru one and proved to me once and again the same - adventure awaits for those who seek for it and there is wonderfull people you meet on the way bringing back the faith into humanity. Just go and see...