The Salt Tea

by Shashwat Seth (India)

I didn't expect to find India

The Salt Tea Riding the auto in search of a beach, we came across miniature white hills smudged with patches of brown as far as the eye could see. By the time I could decide, my friend asked the auto to stop and got down. Like a rabbit running in fresh grass, she scampered through muddy trails between those white hills. Going close I realized these were salt mounds and the smudges were nothing but mud splashed on them by the mild rain shower last night. We were in Thoothukudi; a small coastal town famous for its pearl fishing and salt flats on the eastern coast of Tamil Nadu, India. Being the curious one, I kept walking and finding my way through the muddy trails between the salt mounds. So much so, at 1 point I was surrounded by white all around, from the sky to the surroundings. There was pin-drop silence broken only by the whizzing of the cool breeze. Little did we know that mother-nature had something different in mind for us. The calm weather gave way to clouds. With a thunderous lightning strike, the sky ripped open pouring heavy rain mercilessly. Running helter-skelter, we were desperately looking for shelter. A small tin shade nearby was the temporary relief. But with the storm growing by the second, this tin shade was simply inadequate. There was a small hut a 100m sprint away. Holding on to our camera and backpack, we dashed towards it. This hut had appeared out of nowhere between the salt hills. On reaching the entrance, it looked like a deserted house made of a thatched roof covered with dry leaves and twigs. However, not a drop of rain could dare enter the abode. We called for help asking if anyone was there inside. After about 5 minutes, a lady clad in traditional Kerala saree came out. Frail and dark, her bony fingers and wrinkles on the face were a testament of the hard work and experience she had been through. Very politely she asked us to sit inside lest we get drenched. Slowly she started sharing her life story. She was born and brought up in a small village in Kerala, got married at an early age and moved to Thoothukudi post marriage. The couple did many small jobs together to make sure their daughter gets an education. They had been working on the salt flat for about 12 years. Looking at the hut (which did not even have proper walls or flooring), their clothes and everything around, it was easy to presume they were under poverty. But as the conversation continued, I realized they were probably richer than everyone else. She said that they liked working on the salt flats and led a very simple life. Well, minimalism got a new definition for me that day. By this time, we saw a blurry figure approaching in the distance. He was frantically riding his bicycle trying to avoid the mud patches. He has half drenched by the time he reached the hut. The lady now had a smile on her face. He took out a small plastic pouch and gave it to her. It was their evening tea for which he had to travel more than 5kms. Her eyes lit up. She immediately poured the tea in 2 bowls and offered to us. I was awestruck at her hospitality. I never expected this gesture. They were selfless and living proof of humility! As I slowly sipped the tea, I realized it was a little salty, probably because of the little salt that was left out in them. But we drank it with pleasure happy to see our hosts smiling from ear to ear. When the rain stopped, we bid farewell and started on our way back. I couldn’t help but think how the smallest of gestures can create the biggest impact on our lives. That salt tea is still 1 of the tastiest I ever drank.