The Secret Side of Tokyo

by Jordan Byrne (Australia)

I didn't expect to find Japan

There are two sides to a place just like there are two sides to a person. One is reserved, traditional, and in a way intentionally pleasing to others with the use of hard work. The other is liberated, carefree, and feels like letting go of a deep breath after restraining yourself all day. ‘This city takes work hard play hard to the extreme’, I remember thinking Tuesday morning while eating bakery pastries for breakfast and watching numerous Japanese men and women carry each other from the night before, some of which remained in their suits from work. All dull-eyed, out of breath, and dragging their feet across the uneven sidewalk, some appeared to be heading home and some shaking themselves off to walk straight back into office buildings once again. With some of the longest working hours in the world, the Japanese are known for being extremely hard workers, arguably to some, they work too hard. This is the reason some believe as to why many also enjoy indulging in celebrations and nights out as well. However, I discovered this was not the only reason. Japan remains to be a traditional country with traditional values. Values of which include the significance of personal expression yet emphasise the privacy of sexuality. Sexuality and public displays of affection are not to be displayed or discussed. This leaves the local gay scene not only concealed but to some unreachable. The reconnection of an old friend in Shinjuku Tokyo exposed me to the secret world of the gay community in Japan of which I didn’t expect to ever experience. After a familiar meal of fish and chips at the local British pub, while watching the Rugby World Cup, my friend asked me where I wanted to go. I expressed that he takes me anywhere he knows is fun and different to back home in Australia. “I want to see the real Tokyo,” I said. I was taken on a walk-through Shinjuku, passing the many neon lights and hundreds of people to unexpected quiet dark side streets. The sound of laughter, squeals, and vibrant music glimmer from the obscurity as we come closer to the bars. Sitting on the corner there perched ‘Eagle’ a bar filled to the brim of people from all walks of life. Lathered in leather, denim, and fishnets with never-ending drinks there was not a frown in sight. Greeted with kisses and hugs I met new friends all of which were from a diverse place in the world. London, Dubai, Berlin, Tokyo, Canada, and Australia all sitting around a wine barrel sharing cocktails. With both hands on the door frames, we bent down and crawled through a petite doorway. Painted beautifully across the wall were two muscular Japanese men embracing each other with a kiss. We passed the one and only bathroom cubical which had a tiny saloon style door leaving little to the imagination. It gave me a giggle as I kept my eyes facing forward towards the bar as we pick up another vodka mixer and head back outside. In many conversations with partygoers, it was evident that when the sun goes down Tokyo was a place of celebration and inclusivity for the gay community. I was told it was smart to keep sexuality discrete during day to day life in Tokyo, however many find its nightlife is more inclusive, vibrant, and explorative than many other countries. During sundown is where partner meets partner and many individuals create new families to replace the ones they’ve lost due to family conflict or travel. Once drinks were emptied all too fast it was time to travel to our next destination, which undoubtedly was all you can drink karaoke. While surrounded by friends, new and old, belting out Kelly Clarkson and Destiny’s Child in numerous languages, I felt fortunate. Not only that I had the opportunity to experience the hidden gay scene of Tokyo, but fortunate to create connections with those who have lives so different to mine. Unacceptance of same-sex love has always confused me. Love is love, let's embrace it no matter where it is found.