The Sunset Club Park

by Ramaa Muthukumaran (India)

I didn't expect to find India

“Cemeteries used to be nice and quiet. Now they're teeming with life.” ― Anthony T. Hincks. Don’t know if Anthony Hincks ever visited Delhi or not. His quote though, seems apt for ‘The Sunset Club’ park. I am talking about the famed Lodi Gardens, the green lung of South-Central Delhi. It seemed a natural progression to explore the earth element, the gardens after visiting an ancient step well - the water element, all of it within the metropolis. The Lodi Gardens have inspired authors like Khushwant Singh to write. And commoners to embrace nature in their daily lives. One early morning found me traversing these very grounds with the love of my life. The entrance was buzzing and an imposing cupola invited me in. I went up double flights of steps on the western side of the platform with the expectation of finding a tomb. Instead, the place was being used for a yoga session. Bare, it appeared huge under the dome. Finished in 1490 AD, historians consider Bara Gumbad (Big Dome) to be the first full hemispherical dome in Delhi. The interior of the Gumbad is of dressed granite with some stucco work and paint. A solid slab runs on the inner periphery wall. On the outside the stone is a mix of red, black and grey. Two distinct features imply that Bara Gumbad is not a mausoleum. First, the absence of a tombstone. Second, the attached mosque on the same platform. There is also speculation that Bara Gumbad could have been a gateway to this place of worship. But the mosque is from 1494 and the architectural style is different too. The position of the mosque with respect to the Bara Gumbad also makes it circumspect. Another Lodi period monument, The Friday mosque is quite distinct from it. Ornate with five arches and a prayer wall, it is a stunning example of Islamic architecture. Each of the three vaulted roofs have a rich decoration of plaster work. The walls have exquisite mehrab (window or niche) designs carved on them. Inscriptions from the Quran called Ayats adorn the walls. The central arch in front of the prayer wall is the largest. They reduce in size towards the sides. Opposite the mosque on the east is a simple mirror image structure in rubble masonry. It could have either been a guest house (Mehman-Khana) or assembly hall (Majlis-Khana). Instead of five, there are seven chambers within it. Separated by doorways, the walls are of granite. The architecture is like that of the Bara Gumbad. Next to The Friday Mosque is another mausoleum believed to be of a noble from Sikander Lodi’s Court. Blue glazed tiles which once adorned the arched ceiling gave its name (Shish meaning glass). Shish Gumbad is artfully embellished. Floral designs and Quranic inscriptions dot the structure. One can see the remnants of the blue enamelled tiles here and there. From the outside, it appears to be two storeyed and not singular. The architecture incorporates both Islamic and HIndu Styles. Lodi Gardens, as seen today, were first created by Lady Willingdon in 1936. Until that time, the four important landmarks lay scattered around the village of Khairpur, as it was known then. Sikander Lodi’s tomb finds a place in this green space. Apart from the Lodis’, this garden hosts one of the few remaining visages of the Sayyid dynasty. Muhhamad Shah’s tomb. A construction done around 1445 AD. Also notable is the Athpula (Eight Pillared) Bridge, built during Emperor Akbar’s reign. The Yamuna used to flow under its seven arches. Now a lake with a fountain surrounds it. My limited time did not allow me to soak in the spread of over 90 acres. But, it definitely gave me a taste of Delhi’s hyperactive morning life. Also gave me a reason to go back to this splendid green acre at the earliest. I had come to this place to relax and soak in the early hours of the day, but definitely did not expect to get so drawn into its hallowed history.