The Vibrant Life of a Sleepy Town

by Nicole Holmes (Australia)

I didn't expect to find Italy

A sense of sadness overcame me as we were nearing the end of our walk, I silently asked the question, ‘how will this place survive?’ We had strolled from the top of town along the intertwining alleyways and curving paved streets. Tall three storey buildings were knitted close together, some painted yellow or orange and some just grey stone and mortar. Empty rooms stood behind many of these walls as we passed large arched entrances with closed double wooden doors, with the words ‘Taverna’ written above them. Vintage street lights hung from the buildings guiding us as they cast the town in a warm yellow glow. I tried to focus on the beauty that surrounded me as we finished our walk at the lower end of town. We turned right to our favourite bar, sitting before the large medieval gates that marks the entrance to San Gemini. The modern houses were strewn along the road that twisted its way outside the gates through the Umbrian mountains and countryside. If you follow that road you would come to Carsulae, the Ancient Roman Town we were excavating, it had been abandoned and left in ruins. Some of its stones are actually found in the walls and churches of San Gemini. Then that nagging question returned. ‘How will this place survive?’ Small towns have a tendency to be left and forgotten. New roads are built, convenient locations to live arise, and the young tend to migrate towards new towns and cities with more opportunities. So, how does a place like San Gemini continue to thrive? I contemplated these thoughts, sipping chilled prosecco and drinking in the cool autumn night. I notice a group of elderly cheerful men sitting where some table and chairs had been squeezed on the opposite side of the road. They were a familiar sight. The population within these walls is aging and they can be seen steadily making their way about the town, migrating to different ideal spots to sit, chat and observe. It is a place with a relaxed and unhurried approach to life. That’s why I didn’t expect to find the quietness interrupted with a distant beat of drums. We were told that the festival ‘Giostra dell’Arme’ happens this time of year. No one had told me that San Gemini would erupt. An excitement became palpable as the town hung flags throughout the streets of the two rivalling sections within the fortified walls, the ‘Piazza’ and the ‘Rocca’. The ‘Taverna’s’, no longer empty, thrummed with excitement as they threw open the doors and revealed the medieval bars inside. Long tables and bench seats were used to hold as many people as could fit as they drank wine from ceramic mugs and ate the traditional meals made from local produce. Our bar was in the ‘Piazza’ part of town and naturally we supported and embraced the green and white side in all aspects of the festival. We cheered our team in the jousting competition as javelins were thrown from horseback. Applauding drummers and flag throwers who marched the streets, during the daytime and late into the night. One night, I noticed, a young boy was holding his sticks and toy drum while staring up at the performing drummers with wide eyes, perhaps he saw a future for himself. Churches opened for raffles, market stalls filled any empty space and the main square held fights, theatrical performances and town games. Locals outside the old gates joined in wearing medieval costumes and tourists lined the streets to take part. For a few weeks, the festival expanded the town from quiet closed streets, to a bustling centre, overflowing with vibrant life. The old can sometimes feel dormant, but that does not mean it is dying. It sits and it holds onto a history, silently waiting to be heard. The people of San Gemini have listened to the drumming and continue to play the story of their town and bring the past into the next generation. This small town will continue to flourish because it is where history comes to life through the people celebrating and honouring the towns traditions. This place will survive.