The Water boys

by David Miller (Australia)

I didn't expect to find Australia

The water boys As a life long surfer, I was keenly familiar with the notion of a “water man.” A strong swimmer, adept at multiple surf craft, expert fisher, competent with boats. The famous Duke Kahanamoku was a well-known example. He introduced the world to the sport of surfing. He stunned and enthralled audiences with his manly physique, grace and prowess. He broke swimming world records and won gold at multiple Olympics. Every surfer likes to think that they are a water man, but few really are. After a few weeks holidaying around Hawaii, I was starting to understand that Hawaii seemed to be full of real water men. I first saw an inkling one afternoon at the famous Bonsai pipeline. The ocean was angry. Large dangerous waves. Powerful rips. Only a few brave souls surfing. The beach closed for swimming. Suddenly, a life guard is sprinting through the shore dump with a rescue board. I notice a man signalling for help at least 200m out to sea, hopelessly caught in a strong rip. Within moments, the guard reached the man, hoisted him onto the rescue board, and paddled frantically to catch a wave towards shore. The wave he caught was huge, surely too big for a clumsy paddle board. It crashed down around the board. Skillfully, the rescue board was steered toward the beach. And within a few more moments, the men are safely on the beach. A drowning is averted. A few days later, I was enjoying the sunset at Sunset Beach. The ocean was still very wild. Huge waves, squally, choppy, dangerous conditions. The beach was closed for swimming. I saw 2 schoolboys jump off “da bus.” One had a ukulele slung over his shoulder, the other boy with a body board under his arm. They stripped off their shoes and shirts, and meandered down to the waters edge. I was fixated. I thought, “surely they’re not going to swim in these conditions? That would be crazy. And dangerous!” The boys were nonchalant. They skillfully surfed the pounding shore break. The body boarder was using the “drop-knee “ technique to stylishly weave his way through long thumping close outs. The other boy deftly body-surfed the large treacherous waves. I was impressed, if a little concerned for their well-being. I’d surfed for 30 years, including some big waves, but would never think of entering an angry ocean like this. After 20 minutes, they were back in their school clothes, and returning to the bus stop. I watched them pass, and wanted to tip my hat in recognition of their freakish water skills. They were busily chatting as they passed me – I assumed they were frothing over the surf they’d just had. But as they passed I heard one say “Hey, have you done that math assignment yet?”