The Wild, Wild Coast

by Samantha Kruger (South Africa)

A leap into the unknown South Africa

Living inland meant that interactions with the ocean are brief, fleeting holidays, leaving one in awe. However, when offered the chance to sail from Durban harbour to East London, along the eastern coast of South Africa, in a yacht, I pounced on the opportunity. The voyage was set and planned meticulously by our skipper. The team gathered - Skipper, William Yell, Day Skipper, Liam Yell and me, as the slave of the crew (the deck hand) – understandable, as I knew nothing about boats, except that they floated and that one has to tie outrageous knots. On arrival at the harbour, we saw her, the 31 ft Muira, named, " Xanadu ". The night before was filled with laughter and mountains of snack foods as we prepared for our journey. As the morning light touched the waters, off we set, orders between the harbour and skipper were transmitted in riddles over microphones. Greeted by vast deep blue seas and beautiful coasts covered in the golden morning glow, we joked about the voyage and how it would be filled with fishing and calm seas, followed abruptly by our entire crew getting sea sickness. As wind picked up, we set our lines out with lures and waited, the elation when the reels ran were short lived... After realizing that our squid lures had caught the eyes of multiple Gannets... Then it happened! Liam’s reel started running... he flung himself around the boom to grasp his rod... Beaming as the fish tail-walked along the waves... A Dorado! The green and yellow shimmer of its body created a buzz amongst us! Unfortunately, my steering lead to greater complications as circling was not the best course of action... However, after tirelessly fighting, it was aboard! Its colours faded to dull greys and blues, much like the skies… William instructed us to put on life jackets, and clip ourselves to the boat... The wind picked up, a storm was approaching... and fast! The waves grew higher, the wind started howling and ripping at the sails… The main sail pulled out of the mast! Flapping frantically, we tacked it down strapping it to the boom. Average wind speeds of 60 knots - gusts of 80! It spun the boat and snapped the main sheet securing the boom! William and Liam steered as we surfed 6-meter waves at 18 knots, bare pole. My mind racing with all the stories of the hundreds of shipwrecks, such as the São Bento. All the while feeding the others granola bars and sparkle sweets, trying to be useful. Morning finally arrived. The waters were flat, a pale blue colour matted the skyline and seas, the wind was non-existent and not a cloud in sight. We were becalmed... Being driven mad… We were now were barely moving! William took this opportunity to cook the Dorado, as we could now stand without being tossed around like balls in a barrel! The fish was delicious, soft and tantalizing... Gobbled by everyone with great enthusiasm, as it wasn’t a granola bar or sparkle! The feast boosted morale. The wind began to whistle, ever so slightly into the sails. We were gaining speed to the tune of Liam strumming a ukele. Dolphins begun flittering in and out of sight, all around the boat! They danced along the surface, mothers and babies playing to our “ooohs” and “ahhhs!”. As the sun set, I sat on the bow, watching the dolphins leaving to check on other weary sailor, the water became darker and the stars began to flicker in the sky. The waves breaking against the boat began to sparkle with a green glow, after rubbing my eyes and thinking I might be imagining it, I called to Liam and William, who were equally as mesmerized by the bioluminescence. This was the final goodbye from the sea… As we wiggled our way into the East London River port and moored. Sailing is a game of life and death - filled with magical moments, beautiful interaction and awe-inspiring coastal veiws. However, it tests you, mentally, physically and emotionally through unpredictable situations. It is a leap into the unknown -and, if you survive, you emerge stronger.