Time travel in Cuba

by Amina Muniz (Cuba)

A leap into the unknown Cuba

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From the back seat of a 1955 convertible Chevrolet (which now runs with a diesel-powered Russian engine), my eyes capture the remains of what once were the fancy mansions of the wealthy Cuban bourgeoisie. A vast sequence of deteriorated, yet still magnificent buildings, are today homes to numerous humble families. Here and there, debris of collapsed structures remind everyone that, at any time, the world might fall over their heads. A few meters away, luxury hotels offer visitors fine dining and tasteful mojitos. The charming decay of Havana attracts tourists eager to experience what some travel agencies sell as an unforgettable time travel. The happy, smiley Cuban, always singing and dancing when pictured in touristic guides, contrasts though with the somewhat sad and tired elderly watching the wheels go round and round. The youth, anxious to buy modern gadgets and fashion items released day after day by renowned brands worldwide, are also aware that most of those products will probably not be on sale in any Cuban store. Even ordinary goods, such as coffee or beer, and essential ones, ranging from condoms to fuel, seem to be always in risk of a shortage. As the charming bearded revolutionaries become ever more part of a distant past, the sacrifices demanded by the authorities to face the limitations imposed by the sixty-year-old embargo - recently strengthened to its maximum pressure after brief years of decompression - might seem meaningless to many. In the streets of Havana, the ordinary tourist may feel like people will simply give up and claim for a complete change in how things have been working for so long. However, the true traveler has trained eyes, and is not convinced by the first, sometimes superficial impression. When a slow internet connection may irritate the tourist who cannot upload his selfie, the traveler will find a good opportunity to engage in a touching conversation with the street vendor. Where a tourist complains that taxis are expensive and uncomfortable, the traveler finds his way hitchhiking with locals. While the tourist criticizes the restaurant that does not have the lobster dish recommended in a touristic guide, the traveler will be pleased by the unique homemade dish cooked by his host family. Experiencing Cuba with a traveler’s eye makes one aware of both the problems the country faces and the immense achievements this Caribbean island has made - especially when compared with most, if not all, of its Latin American neighbors. Traveling in Cuba is very safe; warm-hearted and generous people are always available to help; solidarity is as present as necessity. The absence of publicity (except for outdated political advertisements) provides a true consumerism detox; and creativity, fostered by the need to invent and reinvent, to use and reuse everything one might have had, brings life to things that most certainly would have gone to the trash bin in other countries. In terms of travel options, Cuba offers much more than wonderful beaches and the cultural and historical heavens as the cities of Havana and Santiago. Centuries-old colonial towns, traditional tobacco producing farms, mountains which seem perfect for exhilarating hiking and, everywhere in the country, people who, as in no other place, could debate for hours on any major international issue. As the devastating impact of human action on our planet becomes clearer, traveling to a place that makes you reflect on the real needs of humanity seems not only necessary, but also urgent. Learning how to live with less (even being aware that this was certainly not a choice of the Cuban people, but rather an imposition derived from geopolitical disputes) may be the key to change the course of history. Moreover, understanding that happiness is not to be found in any fancy store can effectively make us better persons. Cubans have faced huge challenges to overcome the limitations imposed by the longest economic embargo the world has ever witnessed. All sort of shortages have taught them to value things as no other people do. An array of internal problems, of course, do exist – where don’t they? Nevertheless, with less consumerism and much more solidarity, traveling to Cuba can teach us not only about the past, but also about how future could be.