True Ladakh begins where the road ends

by Sai Lalitha Aiyer (United Kingdom (Great Britain))

A leap into the unknown India

I am at a loss for words to describe what I saw and experienced because some experiences cannot be reduced to the limits of words. But words have the power to inspire and assist imagination. So, do treat these words as your gateway to the most life-changing trip you could aspire to take. I landed at Leh, Ladakh on the 1st of February 2019 around 10 am in the morning. As I looked out of the plane window, I was greeted by the amazing mountain range that left me in awe. They were beautifully brown and decked in silvery snow as the sun’s rays glimmered on them. And they stood tall and proud as the guardians of the journey that lay ahead of me. There was a sense of comfort from the beginning. Ladakh was turning out to be a land of irony. The trees were withered and the surroundings were molded by different shades of grey. Yet, there was a sense of authenticity, that was highlighted by the vibrantly colored flags, the majestic stupas and the smiling faces of the locals. I was in a land that was truly the essence of true nature and life. The final day of acclimatization was the most nerve-wracking. All of us had itchy fingers and were dealing with our own nervousness and excitement. To beat the nerves, we danced to Bollywood songs together compiling our energy into one, supporting each other and assuring each other for the next day’s trek. Creating a sense of unity through a familiar starting point brings around a sense of assurance and comfort. When we first reached our basecamp, the frozen river and the giant rock formations that guided it looked so majestic, it reminded us of how small we are in comparison to these wonders that the world holds. And so, we began. We waddled along like penguins, slipping and making sure the ice was solid. We had amazing guides, Tolden and Sanghe! They were literal godsend guardians. One of the trek days, I infamously kept falling, stepping on the wrong part of the ice. But Tolden stood with me, laughing at and along with me, supporting me, encouraging me to move forward. An experience that was supposed to reduce my morale had instead become one that I fondly recall even today, chuckling to myself. Despite the bitter cold, the beautiful view of the sunrise above the mountains made everything worth it. Despite the frozen toes, the painful need to stop, I fought my weak-willed mind and persevered. This made me stronger. We walked almost 10 km every day, with our lovely guides and porters, with lovely home-like food cooked for us at every pit stop. But we all had an end goal in mind. To reach Nerak, the final destination we had prepared for. Many groups who went before us warned us that the water was too high, that it would be dangerous to proceed toward Nerak. But our team decided to take on the dangerous unknown, after careful consideration. Surprisingly, as we kept walking, we noticed the ice was extremely solid, with no sign of water at all. It was truly a blessing. Nerak is a tiny village that is scarce on supplies and electricity. They have no roads or access to the city during the winter, which is why they must stock up on food and water for the winter. Seeing their dire situation really struck my heart. Locals must complete this Chadar trek regularly to get to their native village. To their loved ones and family. It is extremely eye-opening when we realize that our leisure is their daily bread and butter, their daily routine. This applies to the Indian soldiers who are there to protect the country, surviving in the cold for long periods of time. To make it out of this trip, one must have extreme mental resilience. One must be determined. One must be and feel confident with their own capabilities. But above all, you need to remember, the best experience is one taken on foot with no path ahead of you. The perfect metaphor for life.