Unexpected finds in Stratford-Upon_Avon

by John Tonna (Malta)

I didn't expect to find United Kingdom

Finally, I had the opportunity to visit Shakespeare’s birthplace, Stratford-Upon-Avon. To make the most of my time I joined a walking tour. The meeting place is near the Swan Fountain a few steps away from the Shakespeare Royal Company Theatre and the banks of the River Avon. “Avon” means river in ancient lingo. The river is full of swans, sharing the river with the barges. The graceful birds gather at the water edge to catch the breadcrumbs thrown by the admiring passers-by. A few metres away from the hubbub of people and swans, life size statues of characters from Shakespeare’s works, like Hamlet and Lady Macbeth, gaze eternally upon the crowds milling about. The tour guide arrives and we start walking towards Sheep Street, at the top of which is the town hall. The guide points to a statue of William Shakespeare occupying a high vantage point on the town hall, gazing down silently on those walking along the old streets. Then the guide turns to a nearby old building with wooden beams criss-crossing its façade. “This house belonged to the family Harvard. The family moved to the US and built a college which later evolved and became what is now known as Harvard University”, remarked our guide beaming with pride. As we proceed throughout the streets, the guide gives a brief historical overview of the main points of interest we walk through. I am feeling as if I have been transported back in time. We reach Shakespeare’s birthplace, then proceed to his childhood school, his new house and finally to his burial place in Holy Trinity Church. After which we walk through a park. To our left is a house once occupied by Marie Corelli a best-selling British novelist of the Victorian and Edwardian eras. It is quite a surprise to learn that another writer competes for the attention of the tourists, albeit posthumously. The guide with a smirk on his face invites us to gather round him. “Dear friends, there is an interesting anecdote about Ms Corelli. Few people have heard about her and fewer still have heard of her Gondola”. “Her what?” I exclaimed. “Yes. As reported in the local newspaper, in 1905 a gondola arrived in Stratford. It was then launched on 10th May on the river.” That’s another interesting find. It is getting more interesting by the minute. Finally, we reach the Shakespeare Royal Company Theatre, our last stop. The rest of the day is free to explore at our leisure. You must be careful while walking along the cobbled streets as some parts are quite uneven and you can stumble quite easily. I realise that I have taken a wrong turn to the Holy Trinity Church which I wanted to re-visit at my own pace. So, I asked for directions from the first couple I saw walking towards me. “Excuse me sir. Can you tell me which way is the Holy Trinity Church?” I asked the old gentleman with his wife (I assumed) on his arm. He described the directions quite patiently. I thanked him and complained about the uneven cobble stones. “In the old days, the cobble stones were the least of your problems young man”. “How come” I remarked? “Well, the gentlemen would walk near the inner side of buildings while the women on their arm would walk to the side of the street away from the building. Just in case someone suddenly opens his bedroom window and empties the chamber pot contents into the street. The poor men would happen to be drenched in filth. In those times there were no toilets!”. Glad to be living in modern times, I salute the kind gentleman and go on my way. I reach the church and walk up to Shakespeare’s grave. There is a guide with a small group of tourists huddled around him. I stand to a side to be able to hear his speech. “…Shakespeare’s gravestone has no name and is only inscribed with a curse against any man who "moves my bones. Still, this has not deterred robbers from breaking into the church and making off with his skull". Wow! Another interesting find.