Unexpected Love in the Namib Desert

by Lulama Moyo (United States of America)

I didn't expect to find Namibia

It’s not hard to draw interest from new eyes when you have braids that reach to the bottom of your hips, paired with a graffiti styled undercut; adorning regalia such as a giant, intricately designed septum piercing and oversized hoop earrings; height that is a bit more exceptional than most women; a presence that is both intimidating and inviting; and a full chested laugh that could warm a room. Most people like to fit in line with new surroundings, seamlessly like a shadow. But my appearance makes that nearly impossible. Luckily for me I’ve never taken much interest in being a wallflower. My type of confrontational appeal isn’t common in Namibia but helped me make connections with others like me. I recently decided to spend some significant time in Namibia. It was my second time in the country. My first was a study abroad semester during my undergrad in 2015. I decided to uproot my life for two years and reconnect with a place that I’ve continued to have a longing for. Flying to Namibia I remember moving low over the desert, the sand dunes weaving patch-work of brown and gold against the bright turquoise sky that seemed to stretch limitlessly, I was thrown back into the nostalgic feeling of wonder and anticipation, and being in a place that was so different from my recent life. I was met with perplexed looks that I had braced myself for. An older woman, respectfully addressed as “Meme” in a local dialect, gestured at my nose and told me I had something hanging out that needed to be wiped. The Meme’s face changed and we embraced a mutual laugh as I showed her it was a ring that was purposeful. I was back. Upon arrival I dropped my bags at my accommodation and rushed to Warehouse, my favorite hangout. Warehouse is one of the most integral components to Namibia's arts scene and local tourism industry. It’s one of the major performance locations in the city where local budding talent and renowned global musicians share the stage. Warehouse is always pulsing with the sound of live marimbas, djembe drums, Afro-jazz guitar, and soul trembling vocals. The bright lights, the ice cold and highly affordable Windhoek Draft beer, and warm smiles are an instant recipe for falling in love with the place. This particular day happened to be the Fifa World Cup that took place in July 2018; the coveted Croatia versus France match. The main performance theater for the venue was transformed into a make-shift viewing lounge with a giant screen displaying the match and chairs assembled to accommodate hundreds of spectators. As I made quick glances I could tell that the room was also checking to see who the new-comer was. Namibia is relatively conservative in some ways. But Warehouse has always had the reputation of being an open and welcoming space. With concentrated vibrant, young, creative energy, being at Warehouse reminded me of why I never wanted to leave in the first place. I saw a few familiar faces and was instantly recognized and embraced. One person I hadn’t expected to see was Tapuwa. I first met Tapuwa in 2015. He was part of a Zimbabwean music group who played everything from cultural music, contemporary, and covers. I knew he was a funky creative and danced to his own drum. He was the only other person who stuck out almost as sharply as I did. He had long flowing locs that were dyed bright red at the tips, a loud white and red shirt, and crazy mid-calf socks with multi-colored donuts on them. He was standing in the center of the room amongst the boisterous uproars. He was by himself but ever present with the room. I knew from that moment that I wanted to experience Namibia with him. I gave him my number, and several cups of coffee, a few dune buggy rides, dipped toes in the ocean, countless music festivals, and too many Sunday afternoon braais later, Tapuwa was officially my favorite tour guide. He was a part of a desert love story I never expected to happen. Two odd-balls and two foreigners figuring out life (and love) in Namibia.