Waterfalls in Bogota

by Christos Evangel (Australia)

Making a local connection Colombia

I was expecting a tour bus and polo wearing guide when Andres pulled up in his humble Chevrolet hatchback. He was an upbeat character with an infectious smile; eager to practice his English and excited to be driving Sonya and I to the La Chorrera waterfall. First, we had to pick up our guide. We parked at a service station on the outskirts of Bogota when Jesus came running from across the road. He jumped in the back seat to join our little crew. Like Andres, he was cheerful and genuinely excited for the day ahead. We bantered like a group of mates on a road trip; making us forget it was an organised tour. Andres felt comfortable enough to casually share his recent experience with “Devils Breath”. The nickname for Scopolamine; a drug commonly used in Bogota, making victims extremely agreeable to the commands of others. He tells us how he blacked out, waking up the next morning in an abandoned building - cold naked and afraid. Jesus found this hilarious, making jokes at Andres’ expense; Sonya and I glanced at each other unsure whether to play along with the minimising or be concerned for our new friend. We continued to drive higher and within minutes, the climate had completely changed. The misty clouds moved quickly; sweeping over the unique plants and cacti that were alien to Sonya and I. Amongst the flora were the soft-pink Borrachera flowers; the same flowers used to make the drug which Andres had been spiked with. We cruised along the winding roads; Andres played his favourite songs and relished the opportunity to practice his English. The climb turned into a descent as we entered the rural farming country; a welcomed peace after the incessant honking and chaos of Bogota. When we arrived, Andres felt like a nap; so Jesus, Sonya and I started to hike. The sun was at its peak as we meandered through the valley. We passed a cow giving birth and watched for a while; fixated on the calf’s disgustingly beautiful entry into the world. As the open valley transitioned to dense jungle, Jesus taught us about the indigenous people of the region and their strong connection to nature. At one point Jesus excitedly told us to hush. He spotted a woodpecker; a rarity which he had only seen once before. We then approached a large tree protruding out onto the trail. It was customary to give it a hug and make a wish. I couldn’t think of anything; so I just hugged it and said thanks. We arrived at the bottom of the waterfall and took in the view. The mist created a rainbow as it washed over the canopy, hydrating the valley. When we returned to Andres he was refreshed from his nap and keen for a beer. As we sat and drank, we were again exposed to the stoic attitude of our new friends. Jesus shared the story of he and his girlfriend’s lucky escape when crossing the Panama/Colombia border on foot. After being caught in prohibited territory, paramilitaries brought them to their camp and tied them to a pole for the night. The guards told him they would soon be playing soccer with his head. Luckily, a compassionate guard decided to change the course of their fate; untying them and telling them to run. The conversation inevitably turned to the Narcos and the impact of ‘Plan Colombia’. The Colombian military were being offered incentives by the US government for guerrillas and Narcos killed. When the enemy became scarce, opportunistic military units resorted to killing the men in small towns; then dressing them as guerrillas to claim their rewards. It broke my heart when Andres told us this was how he lost his dad. On the drive back, I thought about the stoic nature of the Colombian people. From what I could see, the events that passed had not collected in a drowning pool; they flowed like the La Chorrera waterfall, forming the resilient and optimistic characters that I was so lucky to meet.