Welcome to Kashmir

by Ummulkhair kadri (India)

Making a local connection India

“Welcome to Kashmir”, read the signboard as I arrived at the Srinagar Airport. I saw people of different nationalities. And then there were people who belonged to Kashmir. Men and Women, both serving government duties, unlike told by the media, that Kashmir does not let their women work. I took my bags from the Conveyor Belt and moved towards the exit, which was, in fact, entry to Kashmir. Unlike other Airports in India, Srinagar Airport is owned by the Indian Airforce. A man with pink cheeks and wrinkles on his face was standing with a Name board. I read my Name and ran off to him. I, along with my fellow Travelers was guided to the Car that we had pre-booked. I jumped in the car and attuned our bags on the top of the car in the carriages segment. We started with the Trip towards Dal Lake. Hamid, My Travel Guide, spoke charmingly to us. However, Life in the valley seemed disturbed. Fewer shops were open. I heard the schools remain open only for a few hours unlike in other parts of the country. I noticed a Van ahead of my car, full of army men. As we drove on the main road, more men at every km were standing on the roadside. They were everywhere in these giant green military trucks. I asked Hamid, “Is the security high because of India’s Independence Day, nearing soon”. He merely said, “No! This is usual and leaned on to play Kashmiri song on the Radio. “Rind Posh Maal Gindhne Graaye Lo-Lo” which means “Let's welcome the spring season” After a few miles, I noticed More Men camouflaged hiding behind Trucks, standing on House Rooftops and also behind Trees. I realized something was not normal. It was a curfew-like situation. I turned around and checked the expression on my fellow traveler's faces. It had turned blue too. I asked again, why are there Army Men at every 1km? To which now he replied, “The Army claims to protect us from the hidden ongoing terrorist activities. Not knowing, they terrorize our daily lives. Crackdowns happen so many times to my family. The military just enters the house, they suspect and ask a single person for their identification. To Prove identity to People of our country. To live like strangers in our Homeland is more terrorizing than the Terrorists.” I felt mortified of myself, for taking granted our Freedom and not standing for our People. "Who all are there in your family?", I asked Hamid to ease down the conversation and the vibes. "My Wife and Two daughters." He replied I had managed to break the ice. I asked casually. "What do they do?" My wife takes care of the errands. "And daughters go to school?" With a void in his eyes, he cleared his throat and replied, “No, Last time I dropped my kids off to school was on March 3. You never know what happens! There are Curfews and protests. Things are tense. How could I know whether my children were safe once they left their homes? Schooling comes later, life and safety first!” he added and halted the car. We got stopped for the fourth time by the military men because Hamid started driving too quickly and didn’t see one of the military flagging him down. It was scary. Hamid calmed us down and spoke to the Army men in Pashtun language. After a few minutes, he managed to convince them that we are merely Tourists. They shook their guns. We drove off. Kashmiri folk songs still playing in the Radio. “Today’s lunch is arranged in this Restaurant”. Hamid requested us. Without realizing, all of us were engrossed in Kashmir’s Reality and shaken of what was happening around us. He turned off the Radio and stopped the car. “Madam, we have reached the restaurant”. As I try to score a seat for myself in the restaurant, I am reminded of Amir Khusro’s famous words that best describe the Kashmir’s beauty, spirit, and hospitality. “Agar Firdaus bar roo-e zameen ast, Hameen ast-o Hameen ast-o Hameen ast”. Meaning If there is a heaven on earth, it’s here, it’s here, it's here.