What enchants me

by Juliana Gouveia (Brazil)

Making a local connection Brazil

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One may visit a museum, and they’ll learn about the history of a place. One may go on hiking trails, and they’ll be astonished by the natural beauties of a place. One may watch a folkloric dance presentation and they’ll be delighted by the culture of a place. But if you want to know the realities of living in a certain place, you should go to the local street market. I am not talking about those street fairs/flea markets that usually happen on the weekends, where they sell handcrafts and street artists show their talents. Don’t get me wrong, I love these too! But if you are serious about getting to know the place you are visiting you should look for that street market that usually happens during the week, in the mornings. They’re likely far from the touristic center and they’ll end by midday so residents can shop and go back to their business. I have been traveling for two years now living full time on the road in a VW bus with my boyfriend, traveling Brazil from South to North. We’ve been to so many feiras that they sort of became a blur and a mix of sensations and scenes. There are colorful stands exposing juicy fruits. Some of them are well known, such as sweet watermelons, rape pineaples, fresh oranges. Some are unique such as acerolas (bright red, they are little bombs of vitamin C) and buriti (a nut like açaí and guaraná that makes a delicious smoothie). There are home-grown vegetables, free-range eggs, fresh milk, and homemade cheese. You can find all sorts of pieces that may be missing for your home, such as peelers and smashers, pans and even strips for your havaianas. Then, there are the stands with treats for you to have breakfast right there. Cakes, pastéis (a fried dough filled with whatever you choose), tapiocas (a pancake of crushed and fried manioc flour with filling) and so many regional treasures. What is so special about street markets? It is the vibrant feeling of people getting together! There is noise. Loud music, chickens and goats cackling and bleating . Old women gossiping. Who married, who has gotten a divorce, who has died. Men having coffee, cachaça or caldo de cana, arguing about politics or soccer with the same passion. Of course there is also women arguing about politics and soccer and men gossiping. Boys running around with their wheel carts asking the ladies if they can take their groceries for a coin. Dogs sleeping under the stands. And the smells! Sweet fresh fruit. Herbs and exotic seasoning. Fish entrails. And the chicks dyed in pink, blue or green that the boys happily sell around the market. It is a party and a mess for the senses. Human beings have a history of getting together to exchange objects since primordial times. I only understood the social, political and anthropological relevance of the feiras when I got to the Northeast of Brazil. When you buy in a street market you are helping improve local economy by buying from local producers and sellers. The thing is not only objects and money are being exchanged in there. Important information is being shared. People find a free and democratic space to be. They talk about the issues in their neighborhoods, what is going on in the children’s school. They get organized; they get to know when the next transport strike will be. In a context where individuality and private space has been more and more stimulated, the street market is a space of resistance of the collective. So here’s my tip. Next time you travel in Brazil, look for the feira. Ask for a pastel and a caldo de cana. Observe. Listen, even if you don’t understand a single word. And, if you’re Lucky, a nice stranger having a coffee by your side may talk to you and invite you for lunch, for a boat ride or for a forró. It has happened to us.