When I get the time to stand and stare, I make plans.

by Hafsa Coatwala (Singapore)

A leap into the unknown India

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Site Location - Sanchi; A small village located on the outskirts of Bhopal, home to one of the most beautiful ‘Stupas’ or hemispherical domes. After an hour’s drive from Bhopal with the sun at peak, we reached the landmark which deals with the nurture & the subsequent flowering of the ‘Deen of Buddhism’. With the presence of monkeys (don’t we find them at most of the historical sights regardless whether the site is renowned or lying in ruins unattended), bats hanging upside down the pine trees, squirrels, peacocks, ducks and rabbits, it’s hard for the wandering partial eye to stay focused on either -nature or man-made beauty. But it’s easy to convince them with the existence of channels like Natural Geographic, Animal Planet. I could spot the picture-perfect hemispherical dome topped by a triple parasol within the square Harmika (railing) from afar. A terrace below enclosed by a fence and an encircling balustrade at the ground level, accessible from the 4 cardinal directions through the intricately carved gateways (Torans). Each Toran has two 34 feet high upright pillars crowned by elephants, dwarfs and our present-day official seal of India (Ashoka Lions). And how the exquisitely carved Torans holds the eye in awe! It wouldn’t have if gradual beautifications did not take place, for these Buddhist stupas were simple mounds without decoration during the Mauryan period. It’s not much of a challenge to read through the ornamented Torans instead of a much easy modern-day script. Gautama Buddha’s birth, his first sermon, his enlightenment, his incarnations, Jataka miracles (like the mango miracle, miracle of sankasya). The Balustrades carved with a variety of floral motifs reflecting the prevailing myths and Greek influence. The fence with a series of uprights with lenticular crossbars suggested to me the inspiration from wooden fences. If it is, then it’s quite an innovation! The Achaemenid and Athenian inspiration in architecture, motif designs, styles. Well, I don’t know if inspiration is the right word. For even though the motifs and architecture are so strikingly similar, there are some differences and innovations. Maybe the shared pool of symbols can be associated with different meanings and significance, for it was imbibed by a different culture? The motifs carved on the pillars and the Balustrades have a rich varied symbolism with resonances in different traditions. They must have been in harmony with the Dhamma message of Ashoka, for maybe Ashoka himself did chose the motifs with great care. The Lotus symbolizes purity in Indian tradition. The Lion –solar symbol in many ancient traditions. Another reason for the selection of the Lion as motif could be that the Buddha is referred to as Sakya Sinha (lion amongst the Sakyas) in Buddhist tradition. Even the Elephant motif has a tradition that reads that Buddha entered the womb of his mother in the form of a white elephant. The elephant also has great significance in the Jain and Brahmanical tradition. The Bull is the symbol of fertility and the Horse symbolizes the departure of Prince Siddharth from his home. The Lion found at the gateway appears with stag horns, wings, some with two-pronged horns. Influenced by Assyrian art? Many motifs represented 2 or maybe more than 2 symbols taken together. Recollecting some- elephant-faced bull with Antlers, horse’s head and a human's body. Definite identification with the Centaurs in Greek mythology! While the guard at Sanchi said, "this combined 2 species in one skin is a ‘Danav’ (monster)." Another perspective. They say the inscriptions carved at different places in the main Stupa has many similarities with the Brahmi Script. One relives the past, reading the stories through the carved & engraved art- much of which was broken of course and much restored (with P.O.P -looked like!). The credit of breaking the marvels is given to (obviously) the early muslim invasions. A few Hadith that I came across with regard to the cause of this violent destruction suggests that Angels of Mercy of Lord do not enter the place where imitations of creating living things .i.e. Lord’s handiwork are present. Indeed, the key to a good cocktail drink [contemporary Cosmopolitan India] is to gently combine the ingredients and stir THOROUGHLY.