Palazzo Medici, Pisa, Italy
17th of June
The four narrow rowboats, differently coloured to represent the city’s four districts, each contain a steersman, a climber, and eight oarsmen struggling against the current.
The finishing line is a boat anchored at Palazzo Medici, a location decided in 1737 upon the request of the Duke of Montelimar, who was staying in one of the palaces there. The climbers must scale one of four cables to the top of the boat’s 10m mast and grab a paliotto (triangular, silk banner). The blue banner indicates first place, white is second, and red is third. The winners receive an animal such as an ox or a rooster; the losers are awarded with a pair of goslings and torrents of abuse from onlookers.
The regatta originally celebrated Assumption and moved to St Ranieri’s feast day in 1718. On the eve of the high-speed celebration of the city’s patron saint, Luminara is an altogether more sombre event. Some 70,000 candles in glass holders are arranged along the bridges, palaces and churches overlooking the river, their flickering reflections broken only by candles bobbing on the water.
1 – gasp at the paliotto scramble.
Pisa is famous for its 12th-century leaning tower, which was recently straightened by 45cm to save it from collapse.