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Coronavirus (COVID-19) in Kenya: Read the latest travel alerts to find out how COVID-19 restrictions may affect you.
On my first trip to Nairobi in 2005, I spent my first few nights petrified. Expats had not half-jokingly referred to it as ‘Nairobbery’, and my guide book had enough warnings to fill an entire chapter.
Even though I was staying in the heart of downtown, I took a cab just half a mile down the road to go out to dinner. On the third night, my hotel receptionist asked me why I was doing this. After I told him, he chuckled and told me I could safely walk to the restaurant, by walking on the right side of the street for 100ft (30m), then on the left for the next 100ft (30m), and so on, so I walking near where security guards were posted.
Safety for visitors to Kenya has drastically improved since that first trip, and Nairobi has become an enjoyable stopover on the safari and beach loop, noted for great cafes, bars, and shopping. Yet there are still steps every first-time visitor to Kenya’s capital should take to ensure their holiday stays safe.
Here are six tips to help steer you towards an incident-free vacation.
While you are unlikely to visit Africa’s biggest slum, Kibera, unless on a tour with a local guide, you should be familiar with other parts of the city that are no-go zones. Eastleigh and the entire Kamukunji area, east of the city center, are noted for muggings and armed robberies and should be avoided. The US Department of State has given all Eastleigh and Kibera a Level 3 Reconsider Travel warning.
Nairobi Central and City Square (as far east as Moi Avenue) are busy and safe by day and even more well-lit and policed at night, but it’s best not to travel alone, or to take a taxi called by your hotel if unsure.
On my most recent visit in 2018, I went out at night using public transport in Nairobi. However, as the nearest return bus stop to my hotel was not considered safe, the hotel staff told me to get off two stops earlier and walk the extra five minutes down a safe street that had security guards.
Ask if in doubt, and know that locals will always help you out.
Keep your belongings safe and avoid taking any unnecessary expensive items out of your accommodation. Stash your stuff safely.
You’re better off keeping your big DSLR camera for the safari, but while in Nairobi keep it locked up in your hotel along with excess cash, credit cards, and passports. Only carry the amount of money you need when you head out, especially at night.
The biggest headline-grabbing and continuing concern in both Nairobi, and Kenya in general, are terrorist-related attacks. The Somali militant group Al-Shabaab has attacked military and tourist targets in Kenya several times over the years, including a Jomo Kenyatta Airport restaurant, the Dusit D2 hotel, as well as the 2013 attack in Nairobi on the upscale Westgate Shopping Mall.
While Kenyan security has been beefed up in all of these places, it pays to stay alert, ask locals about safety precautions, and check the most recent postings on your country’s Embassy or Government website. American citizens can enroll in the Smart Traveler Enrollment Program which sends direct updates on any alerts or situations to monitor.
The targets of attacks are often upmarket hotels, the US Embassy, or fine dining restaurants, so you might consider staying in a hostel rather than a smart hotel. Always stay alert and remember that these incidents are unusual occurrences.
Almost everyone coming to Kenya has a dream safari on their mind. Don’t be one of the few who fall prey to offers that are too good to be true.
Cut-price safaris are cheap for a reason (bad accommodation, vehicles, food), and there are even those that will take your hard-earned cash and then disappear into the bush. Before booking:
Note that while touts who approach you on the street with safari offers may be legit, you will pay a bit extra as they are working on commission. It’s best to research, make a list of potential companies, and walk into an agency on your own.
On my recent trip to Kenya in 2018, my partner and I went into several tour companies more than once, and got full itineraries to compare, information on types of food included, exactly where we’d be sleeping (in or outside of the parks), and the maximum number of occupants in the jeep, which resulted in a trip we were happy with.
Known as the “Nairobi Bump,” someone on the street will “accidentally” crash into you, and then profusely apologize, all the while having lifted your wallet or phone while you were distracted.
Other “softer” scams include requests for help buying groceries, school money, or other cases of taking advantage of your good Samaritan tendencies. Best to just shake your head and walk away.
Note that this “sell” might also happen while you are in a local matatu (minivan) waiting to leave if someone spots you as a non-local trapped in a hot van with the window open. Again, politely ignore them and make sure to keep your backpack at your feet or somewhere it can’t be snatched through the open window.
The Kenyan Penal Code criminalizes homosexuality, with a recent ruling upholding a law with a punishment of 14 years in prison for offenders.
While Nairobi may look like any other modern city, it’s best to save revealing clothes and displays of intimacy for your hotel’s private spaces. For single women travelers, Nairobi and Kenya are far easier to travel in than places in the Middle East or India, but if you are heading to the beaches in Mombasa, expect to be pestered or catcalled by young men.
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